Today’s blog post, “Bhandardara travel guide”, takes you on a road trip to the beautiful monsoon heaven in Maharashtra.

It’s been less than a month since I returned from Rajasthan. After the sweltering heat of Jodhpur and Jaipur, the rains in Pune were a blessing.

In almost every blog post, I advise against travelling in the monsoons. But not this time.

Summer or winter are the best for travelling to most places in India, but a few are at their best in the monsoons; Bhandardara is one such destination.

Monsoons mean water, which means waterfalls, and what better place to go waterfall hopping than Bhandardara?

If you’re hunting for a weekend road trip destination during the monsoons and a few hours from Pune— it’s Bhandardara.

So, where exactly is Bhandardara?

Bhandardara, 165 km from Pune, is a small hamlet along the banks of the Pravara River.

Bhandardara is a 5 hours drive from Pune and the ideal destination for a weekend road trip.

I was there for one night. Here’s how I spent my weekend at Bhandardara.

Before I get into the details of travelling to this hamlet, here’s a summary of what the Bhandardara travel guide includes.

• Places to visit
• How to get there?
• Where to stay?
• The best time to visit
• Travel tips

PLACES TO VISIT AND SEE IN BHANDARDARA

Before I list all the stunning and picturesque places to visit and see in Bhandardara, here is a travel tip.

Most places listed are waterfalls you can visit in and around Bhandardara. So, if you’re travelling specifically for the waterfalls, July to October are the only months.

However, if you visit in the summer or winter, you’ll be disappointed because the waters are either dry or a mere trickle.

That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t visit Bhandardara in the summer or winter.

Besides waterfalls, Bhandardara is home to thrilling and adventurous treks.

Now that it’s all cleared up, here’s a list of places to visit in Bhandardara.

• Randha Falls
• Arthur Lake
• Koltembe Falls
• Vasundhara Falls
• Nhani Falls
• Amriteshwar temple
• Sandhan Valley
• Umbrella Waterfall
• Wilson Dam
• Kokankada
• Harishchandragarh
• Kalsubai

NOTE:- All the listed places (except Randha Falls) are under the Wildlife reserve. So, you register your vehicle and the number of people travelling and pay a small fee.

ENTRY TICKETS

For Indians, it’s Rs.30 and Rs.60 for foreigners. It’s Rs.100 for cars, Rs.150 for buses and trucks, and Rs.25 for bikes and scooters.

These costs are for one day. If you’re staying for more than one day, let them know.

I think I’ve bored you 🥱 with all the extra info. So, here’s the first waterfall.

RANDHA FALLS

The Randha Falls is the first waterfall you will see en route to Bhandardara.

Randha Falls is a short drive off the main road.

Just opposite the Randha Hotel is a single-lane road that leads to the waterfall.

Park your vehicle and walk to the waterfall. Once you’ve walked downhill, you’ll see the wide Pravara River. On its bank are walkways leading to various viewpoints.

Each walkway leads to a different viewpoint, so explore them all.

One walkway offers a view of the wide Pravara River; another has a breathtaking view of the river flowing into the stony tubs formed by years of falling water; the third viewpoint is where the Randha Falls are.

Just past the temple, continue walking straight to the raised pavilion. On the opposite mountain is the Randha Falls.

I was about to walk up the first walkway when I heard a booming sound. It didn’t click at first for a few seconds.

Then it clicked that it was the waterfall’s sound. So, I quickly retracted my steps and headed to the pavilion.

After 5 hours in the car, the sight of the waterfall was refreshing.

The Pravara River is calm and slowly flowing at Randha Falls. If you want to take a dip in the river, you can. It’s safe— if you don’t venture from the shore.

ARTHUR LAKE

The next stop is the Arthur Lake.

All the waterfalls and viewpoints border the Arthur Lake. A visit to Bhandardara involves driving around Arthur Lake while stopping for treks and waterfalls.

From Randha Falls, head to the check post. Once you cross the barrier, you’ll see glimpses of Arthur Lake through the thick foliage.

It is simply a preview. Drive a little further to the Arthur Lake viewpoint. From here, you have panoramic views of the widespread lake.

Arthur Lake is a reservoir for the Wilson Dam.

When I visited Bhandardara, I planned to go boating on the lake. Unfortunately, I couldn’t because it was closed due to the heavy rains and rising water levels.

So, I had to see the lake from atop the Sahyadri Hills. But the view was magnificent, so it’s all good.

If you want, you can go boating, camping or for a picnic at Lake Arthur. Also, many birds flock to the lake, making it an ideal spot for bird watching.

KOLTEMBE FALLS

Up next are the Koltembe Falls.

I mistook the Koltembe waterfall for the Vasundhara Falls.

When I reached the top, I saw a board which read “Koltembe Falls” with an arrow pointing towards the waterfall.

After asking a guide, I realised my mistake, and he pointed me towards the Vasundhara Falls.

Koltembe and Vasundhara Falls are near each other. You have to trek through the fields to reach them.

11 km from the checkpost, you will see a bend in the road and several cars and bikes parked on the roadside. That’s the trek starting point.

It is a 1.5 km round trip to both the waterfalls.

Follow the well-trodden path till you see two streams converging. On the right is the Koltembe waterfall.

If you want to see the waterfall, climb the 50 steps (or so) to get close to the falls.

During rain, be careful while navigating the steps. I slipped twice.

Unlike other waterfalls, you can bathe under the Koltembe Falls. There’s no reason to be disheartened.

A little from where the streams converge, you can climb down the embankment to dip your toes or splash around in the stream.

The low-hanging trees and rocky shore are beautiful scenery for photos.

However, I recommend waiting till you get to Vasundhara Falls to splash in the water.

VASUNDHARA FALLS

The Vasundhara Falls are 650 m (one way) from the main road.

As I mentioned earlier, I mistook Koltembe Falls for Vasundhara Falls.

Halfway into the trek, you’ll see two streams converging. Continue walking straight till you see the waterfall. Or you can follow the stream to the falls.

Randha and Koltembe waterfalls were beautiful, but Vasundhara Falls was something else.

This tall waterfall flowed into the pond below with a thundering sound.

I had a blast taking photos while sitting on the boulders alongside the pond.

There was a boulder in the middle of the pond. I wanted to take a photo sitting on it with the waterfall in the back. A rowdy bunch had claimed it and wouldn’t budge.

So, after swimming in the pond for a few minutes— because the water was freezing and then it started raining, adding to the coldness— I returned to the car.

TRAVEL TIP:- Bring water and snacks when trekking to Vasundhara and Koltembe waterfalls, as there are no food stalls.

After drying myself, I sat at one of the stalls on the roadside and ordered the traditional monsoon spread – a steaming hot cup of tea, Maggie, and onion bhajjis.

NHANI FALLS

A short drive from Vasundhara Falls is another magnificent waterfall, the Nhani Falls.

The Nhani Falls was my second favourite after the Vasundhara waterfall.

From the road, I could see the waterfall with a bridge across it. So, I parked the car and climbed the steps to the bridge.

When I reached the top, I saw a series of steps going up. I was curious and climbed to the top. Only to discover a crescent-shaped cave behind the waterfall running along the mountain.

I had always wanted to see a waterfall with a cave behind it.

The floor of the cave was uneventful, but the view was glorious.

I wasn’t the first one to discover the cave if the names scribbled on the walls were any indication.

Below the bridge was a naturally formed pond. A few people were bathing in it.

I didn’t think it was safe as the water flow was fast, and one misstep could lead to injury. However, there was a concrete pond at the bottom, near the steps for swimming.

I was still cold from swimming at Vasundhara Falls, so I decided to skip bathing at Nhani Falls.

For those who don’t know, “Nhani” is a Marathi word for a place in the house where people bathe.

AMRUTESHWAR TEMPLE

Home to a unique linga, the Amruteshwar temple lies amidst an open space surrounded by green paddy fields and the Sahyadri Hills in the distance.

This old temple, dating back to the 12th-13th centuries, resembles the Gondeshwar temple in Sinnar.

But what makes the Amriteshwar temple unique from other Shiva temples is the linga.

Shiva temples have a Shivalinga, but Amriteshwar temple has a yoni with three rocks stacked in the shape of a Kalasha. Usually, the Nandi faces the linga, but at Amriteshwar temple, the Nandi faces the backdoor.

After reading the info board near the gate, I wanted to see how this linga differed from the other Shiva temples.

However, I couldn’t see anything because the Linga was submerged underwater. I tried shining my phone’s flashlight over the water, hoping to see something. But it was too dark.

No locals were around, so I couldn’t ask if the Linga was permanently submerged or if the rains filled the cavity in the gabhargriha.

So, if you visit and see the Linga, let me know.

Even if I couldn’t see the Linga, the temple was beautiful, and the refreshing green lush scenery was a bonus.

A lot of people arrive here during lunchtime. There are small shacks that prepare simple homemade food. So, place your order before heading to the temple.

SANDHAN VALLEY

The next stop is Sandhan Valley.

I was curious after seeing hundreds of Instagram reels.

After parking the car, I asked a local guide for directions. He pointed me in the right direction but failed to mention that it was closed due to rain.

So, I started following the trodden trail. In the distance, I could see rain clouds approaching and picked up my pace.

After about 15 minutes, I saw an arched gateway reading Sandhan Valley. Behind the gateway is a cluster of trees, which seems scary with the thick fog and lack of light.

I continued walking till I reached a stream flowing over stones and boulders. It was a dead end.

I was about to give up and turn when I saw a couple coming up the stream.

Then I stepped into the water and carefully navigated the rocks when I caught sight of a gap in the mountains. It opened into a natural pool that fell into the Sandhan Valley.

Locals had tied a thick rope at the pool’s edge to prevent tourists from venturing further. A guard stationed here kept warning people away.

The water was rushing at the edge of the pool. I wasn’t feeling confident, so I stayed away from the rope.

Upon reaching the parking lot, we heard people discussing a reverse waterfall. But it was raining, and a thick fog had descended, making it difficult to see ahead. So, I decided to forgo the Kokankada reverse waterfall.

If you want to undertake the Sandhan Valley trek, it’s best trekked post-monsoons.

UMBRELLA WATERFALL

The Umbrella Waterfall is next to Wilson Dam and is visible only during the monsoon or after torrential rainfall.

I visited the Umbrella Waterfall on the second day after I checked out of the hotel.

There’s a viewpoint next to the Wilson Dam from where you can see the Umbrella Waterfall in all its glory.

Unfortunately, it hadn’t rained heavily, and Umbrella Waterfall was dry.

So, after taking a quick photo at Wilson Dam, I continued with my homebound journey.

WILSON DAM

If you are in Bhandardara when the Wilson Dam spillage gates open, you are in for a treat.

A few feet from the spillage gates is a bridge. From here, you can see the floodgates and below the bridge is a rocky shore that breaks the fall of the water when the floodgates open. From there, the water drops down several feet into the valley.

Unfortunately, the floodgates were closed when I visited. Maybe next time. 😊

KOKANKADA

I have never undertaken the Kokankada trek or any treks I’ll list next. But I’ve always wanted to.

Maybe this year, I might do it.

Anyway, what is Kokankada?

A tall and massive concave-shaped wall occurs naturally in the Sahyadri Hills. It overlooks the Kokan coast of Maharashtra, hence the name Kokankada.

“Kokan” refers to the coastal region, and “Kada” is a Marathi word for cliff.

Besides being a massive wall, Kokankada is known for “Brocken Bow”.

When you are facing the valley from Kokankada, the sun is right behind, and there is a little fog, then circular rainbows (Brocken Bow) appear.

The only way to reach Kokankada is by trekking. You can visit here during the Harishchandragarh trek.

There are different routes for the Harishchandragarh trek. So, ensure that you’ll be taking the route via Kokankada.

However, the trek to Kokankada is challenging— unless you’re an experienced trekker.

HARISHCHANDRAGARH

Another amazing trek in Maharashtra. It has been on my bucket list for a while.

Its history dates back to the 6th century. Over time, Harishchandragarh played a significant role in defending and controlling the surrounding areas.

Now, it is a trekkers paradise.

There are a few ways to reach Harishchandragarh. Depending on your trekking experience, you can choose which route to take.

The route via Pachnai village is the easiest and shortest route and best for amateurs like me; the second route is via Khireshwar village and has moderate difficulty; the third route is the most difficult and requires trekking experience.

KALSUBAI

Kalsubai is the highest peak in Maharashtra.

While reading about the Kalsubai Peak trek, I’m getting eager to do it. After the monsoons, maybe I will.

At the top is the Kalsubai temple. According to locals, a girl named Kalsubai lived in the Sahyadri Hills. She used to help villagers and animals and cure them. One day, she went up to the peak and never returned.

The villagers built the Kalsubai temple in her honour. It is sacred, and villagers often come here to seek Kalsubai Devi’s blessings.

Apart from the sacred temple, Kalsubai Peak is famous for its views of the neighbouring forts— Alang, Madan and Kulang.

The Kalsubai Peak trek is of moderate difficulty.

The first section of the trek is relatively flat as the path runs through paddy fields and gradually inclines. After passing the fields and forest, you climb steep ladders to get to the top.

Unlike the Harishchandragarh trek, there’s only one route for Kalsubai Peak.

That means it is crowded during weekends and holidays. So, plan your trek accordingly.

HOW TO GET TO BHANDARDARA?

Bhandardara is a hamlet in the Sahyadri Hills. That means public transport like buses, taxis and autos are scarce.

Buses run between big villages, but I didn’t encounter any during my duration in Bhandardara.

The best option to reach Bhandardara is by road because the closest train station is in Igatpuri, and the nearest airport is in Nashik.

If you’re arriving by flight or train, hire a taxi from your destination to Bhandardara.

Hiring a cab is economical if you’re a group, but it is slightly pricey for solo travellers.

Therefore, self-driving is the best option for Punekars or Mumbaikars.

PUNE TO BHANDARDARA ROUTE

Bhandardara is 169 km from Pune and takes 5 hours to reach.

Pune – Yerwada – Vishrantwadi – Dighi – Alandi – Chakan- Rajgurunagar – Manchar – Narayangaon – Otur – Kotul – Rajur – Bhandardara

If you’re travelling via this route, begin your journey early in the morning because there is congestion beyond Yerwada after 9 a.m.

Those living in Hadapsar, Kharadi or Viman Nagar area can use this route instead of travelling to the other end of Pune.

This route is 185 km long and takes 5 hours.

Hadapsar – Kharadi – Lonikand – Koregaon Bhima – Sanaswadi – Shikrapur – Belhe – Alephata – Brahmanwada – Rajur – Bhandardara

The road conditions are good, and it is highways. However, as you draw near Bhandardara, the highway changes to single-lane roads.

TRAVEL TIPS:- Carry snacks and food because there are few breakfast places on this route, and most don’t open until after 9 a.m.

WHERE TO STAY?

Bhandardara may be a small village, but the surrounding area has several hotels and campsites.

The campsites are mainly around Lake Arthur but are closed during the monsoons due to rising water levels.

If you’re travelling during the monsoons, be ready to pay for slightly pricey accommodations. It’s the peak season, and rooms cost a small fortune.

I stayed the night at “The Yash Resort by Cotton Stays”.

YASH RESORT REVIEW

We were a family of five, so they gave us adjoining rooms. One room was triple, and the other double occupancy.

The triple occupancy room has a living room with a pull-out sofa, a bedroom with a queen-sized bed and one bathroom.

The double occupancy room was spacious, having a queen-sized bed and a bathroom, but no living room.

The hotel has an enormous swimming pool. Despite the rain, my siblings and I went to the pool. It was a bad idea because the water was freezing, and the rain added to the coolness.

Yash Resort is spread over a large area and has a disco tec, basketball court, library, board games and more to entertain guests for the weekend.

The staff is kind, hospitable and active. There was one incident that proved the staff’s efficiency and quick service.

Due to the heavy rain, we ordered dinner in our rooms but had forgotten to order rice. After placing our order, the food arrived 25 minutes later.

When the staff brought our dinner, we asked to bring the rice. I thought it would take another 20 minutes for the rice. But the staff said he would be back in ten minutes. And ten minutes later, he came back with the rice.

Overall, it was a comfortable stay. I would give it 3 ⭐ stars.

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT BHANDARDARA?

In all my posts, I always say June to September are the worst months to travel in India. But not time.

The best time to visit Bhandardara and see all the beautiful cascading waterfalls is June to September.

That’s when the waterfalls are plentiful, and you can swim in the naturally formed pools.

Initially, I was going to Bhandardara at the end of June. But when I called the hotel to inquire about the waterfalls, they said to postpone my trip because there was no rain. So, after waiting for another two weeks before planning my trip.It’s best to travel after a few days of rain so that the waterfalls have water.

These waterfalls are visible only during the monsoons. In the winter, the waterfalls have little water and dry up by summer.

However, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t visit Bhandardara outside the monsoons.

The winter months, October to February, are the best months for trekking Kalsubai, Harishchandragarh and Ratangad.

In the summer months, there is a fireflies festival in Bhandardara. Several companies organise camping trips for the Fireflies festival.

I visited Bhandardara in July. The hotel staff informed me that the Fireflies Festival has recently ended.

I have wanted to go since I found out about it last year. I don’t know much about it other than at night, thousands of fireflies buzz about in the fields.

So it doesn’t matter when you come to Bhandardara, there is something for every season.

On that note, avoid weekends and holidays as it gets crowded.

TRAVEL TIPS

That brings us to the last segment of the “Bhandardara Travel Guide”.

If you’ve reached here, it means you’ve read the whole post. You’ll realise that I’ve scattered travel tips throughout the article.

But if you missed them, no worries. Here are all the scattered travel tips and a few more.

• Ironically, Bhandardara is a weekend road trip destination, but avoid it on weekends to avoid crowds. If you want to enjoy the waterfalls, go during the week.
• The waterfalls are present only during monsoons. In the winter, the waterfalls start diminishing, and by summer, they dry up.
• Pre-book your hotels during the weekends as rooms fill up quickly during the weekend and peak season. I travelled on a weekday, and the hotel was half occupied.
• Two days are enough to visit all the waterfalls in the area. Some people do it in one day. It’s possible. Refer to my Bhandardara itinerary for the perfect itinerary.
• Wear proper shoes when trekking to the waterfalls because the trails are muddy, and during the rains, it gets slippery.
• If you’re going to play on the waterfalls, wear clothes that’ll quickly dry because there are no changing rooms nearby. Also, bring a towel.
• Several companies organise treks to Ratangad, Harishchandragarh and Kalsubai. You can book through them.
• Carry cash because the network is spotty, so online payments are unavailable. Also, small vendors don’t have card services.
• Bring jackets and caps because it gets chilly at night during the monsoons.

CONCLUSION

That brings us to the end of the “Bhandardara Travel Guide”.

If you’re looking for a monsoon destination, look no further than Bhandardara.

It is a monsoon paradise and perfect for a quick weekend getaway.

I’ve listed all the travel tips I could think of. My only advice is not to fill your day with too many spots. Take it slow and enjoy the nature.

Before I conclude, here’s a summary of what the Bhandardara Travel Guide comprises.

• Places to visit
• How to get there?
• Where to stay?
• The best time to visit
• Travel tips

I hope the Bhandardara Travel Guide (monsoon edition) was helpful and answered all your questions and queries. Also, I hope you’re excited about your upcoming weekend road trip. If you’ve not already planned it, do it now.

I hope this blog post ignites your wanderlust because

Jobs fill your pockets, adventures fill your soul.

jamie lyn beatty