Are you on the lookout for places with mind-blowing views? And a pinch of adventure? And away from the overcrowded streets of Manali? Then, what you are searching for is the Char Dham yatra. What? Char Dham yatra? Isn’t that a religious pilgrimage? How can that be adventurous? Yes, that’s most people’s reaction. I, too, was one of them. I was wrong. It is more than a pilgrimage circuit. The expansive views, the single-lane roads, weather are ingredients for adventure. The views of rows and rows of the mountain ranges and deep and lush green valleys are unrivalled. Every corner is better than the last. It is the most underrated road trip in India. Based on my personal experience, I assure you, you will not regret it.

The Char Dhams in Uttrakhand is known as the Chota Char Dhams. Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath complete the Chota Char Dham. People believe visiting these temples helps attain moksha and every individual must visit at least once in their life. In this guide, I will cover the following topics for each of the char Dhams:- 

• THE CHAR DHAM YATRA ROUTE
• WHERE TO STAY IN EACH DHAM?
• ABOUT THE TREKS TO EACH DHAM
• TEMPLE TIMINGS
• BEST TIME TO VISIT
• THE DOs
• THE DON’Ts

THE CHAR DHAM YATRA ROUTE

I travelled from Pune to Uttrakhand and back. The road trip spanned over 20 days. However, my itinerary included detours to Gwalior and Varanasi. Also, I had 2 buffer days for unforeseen circumstances. Do you want to combine visits to Gwalior and Varanasi with your Char Dham yatra? Then refer to the below-mentioned route.

Pune – Shivpuri – Gwalior – Dehradun – Barkot – Yamunotri – Uttarkashi – Gangotri – Sersi – Kedarnath – Joshimath – Badrinath – Rudrapur – Varanasi – Nagpur – Pune.

Are you short on time? Or not interested in adding more places to your itinerary? No worries, I’ve got you covered. In that case, refer to the below-mentioned route.

Pune – Ahemdabad – Jaipur – Barkot – Janki Chatti – Gangotri – Sonprayag – Kedarnath – Joshimath – Badrinath – Roorkee – Jaipur – Ahemdabad – Pune.

The overhead mentioned route is from Pune and back. But, if you are travelling from Delhi, refer to the below-mentioned route.

Delhi – Barkot – Yamunotri – Gangotri – Sonprayag – Kedarnath – Badrinath – Dehradun – Delhi.

If self-driving is not your idea of fun, then you can take the plane or train. Jolly Grant airport in Dehradun is the closest one. Rishikesh is the nearest train station. You can easily rent a vehicle from Dehradun and Rishikesh for the entirety of your travels.

Buses are another mode of transportation. You can take the bus from Rishikesh or Dehradun to the Char Dham. However, few buses run through these areas. If you miss the bus, you will end up waiting for a while. Therefore, taxis are the better option.

People believe the correct sequence to visit the Char Dhams is Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath. You receive bhakti (devotion) at Yamunotri, Gyan (knowledge) at Gangotri, Vairagya (sense of detachment) at Kedarnath and Mukti (salvation ) at Badrinath. However, it’s not necessary to follow this order. You can either begin from Yamunotri and end the circuit in Badrinath or vice-versa.

YAMUNOTRI

Yamunotri was the first Dham I visited. It marks the origin of the Yamuna river and the temple is home to Goddess Yamuna. The yellow temple is a tiny beacon amidst the gigantic mountains. There is a hot water Kund beside the temple where devotees bathe before entering the temple. After the gruelling hike, a dip in this Kund is soothing. There is a hot water spring where devotees cook rice and serve it as a prasad. Devotees believe visiting Yamunotri leads to receiving devotion.

WHERE TO STAY?

*Disclaimer:- This is not a sponsored post.

Many people prefer staying in Janki Chatti, the base of the Yamunotri trek. Janki Chatti has numerous guesthouses, homestays. But it tends to get crowded, and finding an available room is difficult. If you don’t like crowds and don’t mind driving, Barkot is a good option. I too stayed in Barkot. Yamunotri is 45 km from Barkot and takes 2 hours. It takes a while to reach Janki Chatti, but the views are glorious, and time passes in the blink of an eye. Below are a few accommodation options-

•  CAMP NIRVANA IN BARKOT I stayed at Camp Nirvana in Barkot. It is the perfect place to stay. The camp is on the banks of the Yamuna river and encircled by lush green mountains. Apart from the breathtaking view, they provide excellent service, large rooms and sanitary bathrooms. You have the option of staying in cottages or tents.

Related post:- Camp Nirvana, Barkot:- A detailed review.

• GMVN TOURIST RESTHOUSE, JANKI CHATTI GMVN guesthouse can be found in all the Char Dhams and everywhere in Uttrakhand. The rooms are compact and hygienic. The resthouse is a little further along the Yamunotri trek. You can find dolis (palanquins) or horses right outside the guesthouse. You have to park your vehicles in the parking areas and walk to the guesthouse.

ABOUT THE YAMUNOTRI TREK

Many people begin the trek from Janki Chatti. It is a 5 km trek each way, and the round-trip takes 5-6 hours. You can rent horses, doli (palanquin) or pithu (like in the movie Kedarnath). The charges for each vary. For horses, they charge Rs.3,500 onwards, Dolis charge 10,000 onwards and pithus charge 5,000 or more. It might seem like an easy hike, but it’s not. It is tiring and strenuous. The hike is an uphill climb. I thought I could easily walk 5 km, but after 30 minutes, I was not so sure. Yes, it is tiring. But in the end, it’s worth the effort. I did walk the 10 km but hiring a horse would have been a better option. You can rent a horse if you change your mind halfway through the trek. You will encounter plenty of horses on the way up.

There is no need to hurry. Carry as little baggage as possible. There are stalls and bathrooms at regular intervals. Also, wear proper shoes. This hike is short compared to Kedarnath, but it, too, is gruelling.

PLACES TO VISIT NEAR JANKI CHATTI (YAMUNOTRI)

GANGNANI

En route to Janki Chatti, there is a small temple on the banks of the Yamuna river. It is a sacred temple, and it is known as Gangnani. Folklore states a sage prayed and meditated for years here. Goddess Ganga was pleased with the sage’s efforts and came down. There is a Kund beside the temple. The water in the Kund is from the Ganga. Locals believe because Goddess Ganga descended here, the water belongs to the Ganga. Walk a little further from the temple to a small opening that leads to the Yamuna river. It is a good place for photos and watching the sunset. This spot is known to locals and a few tourists. So it’s not crowded at all.

GANGOTRI

It was the second Dham on my itinerary. Gangotri is renowned for being the origin of the river Ganga. Scriptures state if Goddess Ganga descended directly on Earth, it would be catastrophic. So, Shiva offered to act as a buffer, and Ganga landed on Shiva’s head, and the river flowed through his tresses. However, the origination of the Ganga is at Gaumukh and is a 19 km trek. The Gangotri temple is on the banks of the Bhagirathi river. Devotees worship and pray to Goddess Ganga and return with water from the holy river. The white-washed temple faces the snow-capped mountains.

TIMINGS:- The temple is open from 4 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm.

WHERE TO STAY?

You can either stay in Gangotri, Harsil or Uttarkashi. There are plenty of guesthouses, homestays and small hotels in Gangotri. Some people also stay in Uttarkashi, as I did. The reason why I chose to stay in Uttarkashi was that it would reduce the distance to Sonprayag. Uttarkashi is 100 km from Gangotri and takes 3 hours. It is the most scenic drive.

Below are a few accommodation suggestions:-

• HOTEL NELANGANA This is a hotel in Harsil and is on the banks of the Bhagirathi river. They have spacious rooms with double or triple sharing. You can check out the hotel’s reviews on Google for better assessment. This hotel is 7.2 km from the below-mentioned Prakriti the retreat. The Gangotri temple is 26 km away and takes 45 minutes.

• PRAKRITI THE RETREAT Prakriti the retreat is a 3-star hotel on the banks of the river Bhagirathi. It is 19 km from Gangotri and 5 km from the Harsil helipad. Spacious rooms with scenic views. Good service, food, and hospitable staff to ensure you have a good time. You can book rooms from their website or any travel website.

ABOUT THE GANGOTRI TREK

No trekking is required to reach the Gangotri temple. It is accessible on foot and is a 10-minute walk from the parking lot, and no trekking is involved. A straight path leads to the temple. There are restaurants, hotels and shops selling souvenirs and puja items. After the arduous 5 km trek to Yamunotri, I was unwilling to walk even 500 m. Therefore, I was glad to hear the Gangotri temple is a short walk.

PLACES TO VISIT NEAR GANGOTRI

GANGNANI

Gangnani, a town en route to Gangotri has hot water Kund. Locals and devotees visit this Kund before leaving for Gangotri. It is tradition to bathe in this Kund before visiting the Gangotri temple. It is between Uttarkashi and Gangotri. Early morning you will find this place packed with tourist buses. Men and women have separate Kunds. People usually spend 15-20 minutes here.

It is 47.3 km from Uttarkashi and takes 1.5 hours. From Gangotri, it is 52.7 km and takes 2 hours. The address is Gangnani, Uttarakhand 249135.

GARTANG GALI

It was the highlight of my road trip. I had learnt about this place a few days before my departure. It is a wooden bridge built years ago. Access to the bridge was closed until recently. What attracts travellers to this bridge is the history, adventure, beauty and more. The bridge hangs from a cliff at 11,000 ft. You have to hike 2.5 km from Bhairoghati to reach the pine bridge. There are no barricades on the side facing the mountain. It makes it adventurous. Before my departure, I read lots of articles on Gartang Gali. Most informed about getting prior permits to visit the wooden bridge. I wanted to go here, but the chances of getting permission were slim. But I didn’t give up, and I was able to visit the bridge. You can see snippets of the Jadh Ganga during the hike.

It is en route to Gangotri. You can stop here on the way. It is just before the Lanka bridge in Bhairoghati. If you are short on time, combine visits to Gangotri and Gartang Gali. I highly recommend visiting here when visiting Uttrakhand.

*Related post:- Gartang Gali:- A detailed guide.

KEDARNATH

The Kedarnath temple is the widely visited Dham. Many people only visit Kedarnath and not the other Dhams. After visiting the temple myself, I now understand why this Dham draws thousands of devotees year after year. But seeing the temple in pictures and standing in front of it is very different. The joy you feel the moment you lay eyes on the temple is unexplainable. There’s something in the air that makes you feel alive. Towering snow-laden mountains surround the temple. In the evenings, the sun shines on the snow caps and paints them golden. The beauty is indescribable. It is beautiful, plain and simple.

The temple opens from 4 am to 3 pm and 5 pm to 9 pm. In the morning, from 4 am to 3 pm, devotees are allowed inside the inner sanctum, where the idol is. But in the evenings, entry to the inner sanctum is closed. You can enter the temple and pray. So plan your tour accordingly. Or you can stay overnight at Kedarnath and visit the temple for morning and evening prayers.

WHERE TO STAY?

There are numerous guesthouses, lodges around the temple. It is better to book rooms in advance during peak season. The only problem is, many establishments don’t have contact info on Google, and a few are available on travel websites. It makes finding rooms a bit difficult. The below-mentioned guesthouses are for overnight stay in Kedarnath. Here are a few suggestions:-

• BHOLA GUESTHOUSE I stayed here. I had not booked the room. I was lucky the room was available because of a cancellation. We were 5 people sharing one room. The rooms are spacious and clean bathroom. Thick blankets (which are a necessity) are provided to ward off the cold.

• AGRABHAWAN KEDARNATH Initially, I was going to stay the night here. But due to unforeseen circumstances, I reached Kedarnath late. I didn’t have a booking here so I wasn’t sure if rooms would be available. So I stayed somewhere else. The rooms and bathrooms are sanitary and spacious. It is a few meters from the temple.

*NOTE:- It is best to book rooms in advance, particularly during peak months.

ABOUT THE KEDARNATH TREK

Of all the Char Dham treks, the Kedarnath trek is the longest. It is a 21 km long trek each way and takes 7-8 hours. Before leaving for Uttrakhand, I was confident I could undertake this trek. But, after watching videos, I decided to take the safer route. So I booked tickets for the helicopter ride.

The Kedarnath trek begins from Gaurikund. There are jeeps that transport people from the parking lot to Gaurikund. They charge Rs.10 per person. From Gaurikund, you can go on foot or rent a horse, doli (palanquin) or pithu (like in the movie Kedarnath). It is a long winding road to the temple. There are numerous stalls to help you replenish your energy. The 21 km hike is long and tiring.

If you are short on time, book a helicopter ride to Kedarnath. Several companies provide helicopter services. Book your tickets online in advance to avoid hassles. There are different types of tickets. The first ticket is a one-way ticket. You can either hike to Kedarnath and return by helicopter or vice-versa. Second, you return on the same day. The third ticket is for an overnight stay at Kedarnath.

NOTE:- Know all about helicopter services to Kedarnath.

PLACES TO VISIT NEAR GAURIKUND (KEDARNATH)

TRIYUGINARAYAN TEMPLE

Would you like to visit where the Gods married? Yes, it is possible. Triyuginarayan temple near Gaurikund is where Paravatia and Shiva joined in holy matrimony. As is the custom in Hindu weddings, a homa (fire) is lit, and the couple walks around it. The homa from Shiva and Parvati’s marriage is at the Triyuginarayan temple. It has been burning for three yugas. Devotees seek blessings for a long and happy marriage. This temple has 4 Kunds, namely, Vishnu Kund, Brahma Kund, Saraswati Kund and Rudra Kund. Also, devotees believe that the water in the Kunds can help cure infertility. Also, the temple is gaining popularity for destination weddings. Many people visit this temple before heading to Kedarnath.

*Related post:- Triyuginarayan temple:- Where Shiva and Parvati married.

BADRINATH

Badrinath is the last temple the Char Dham circuit. Of all the temples, this is the most vibrant one. It is a temple of Lord Vishnu. This red, blue and yellow coloured temple is on the banks of the Alaknanda river. Many devotees end the pilgrimage circuit at Badrinath because, they believe, it is here that you attain salvation.
The legend narrates that Vishnu was meditating here in the cold weather. Lakshmi, his wife, as a Badri tree, shielded him from the harsh weather. Vishnu was pleased with her actions and named the place Badri Ashram. Devotees worship Vishnu, Badri’s husband. Therefore it is called Badrinath.

TIMINGS:- The temple timings are 6 am to 1 pm and 3 pm to 8 pm. By 3 pm, the tourist buses have left. That is the best time to avoid crowds.

WHERE TO STAY?

Devotees either stay in Joshimath or Badrinath. Are you searching for 3-star hotels, and don’t mind a bit of driving? Then Joshimath is the better option. Badrinath also has guesthouses and homestays, but Joshimath has more options. Below are a few suggestions:-

• THE TATTVA. The Tattva is a 3-star boutique hotel in Joshimath. Compared to all the hotels in the char Dhams, Tattva is by far the most luxurious. The hotel is built on a slope and is within walking distance of the market. I stayed here, and I truly enjoyed my stay. The staff is helpful and hospitable. The lower rooms are small and cosy whereas the ones with the balcony are spacious. Soon their new establishment will be opening in Badrinath.

• THE PANCHVATI INN. It is another hotel in Joshimath. Compared to Tattva, it might not seem luxurious, but it has hundreds of positive reviews on Google. The exterior might seem simple, but the rooms and bathrooms are spacious and sanitary. Rooms for double and triple sharing are available.

ABOUT THE BRADINATH TREK

Unlike Kedarnath and Yamunotri, Badrinath requires no trekking. It is within walking distance from the parking lot. The red, blue and yellow coloured temple is visible from a distance. Stalls, guesthouses and restaurants line the street leading to the temple. Here, you can find winter clothes, souvenirs, puja thalis, idols and much more. To reach the temple, you have to cross the bridge.

PLACES TO VISIT NEAR BADRINATH

AULI

Since I visited during the first week of November, I expected to see snow. However, no such luck. I was a little disappointed, but the spectacular views made up for it. The views from the top are marvellous. But, if you want to see 360-degree views of the surrounding ranges, you have to hike a little. There are horses for rent that take you to the viewpoint and back. Even without the snow, Auli is beautiful. Pictures of Auli usually portray a white landscape. It is true, but this view is visible only for a few months. The rest of the year, Auli is a green landscape. Many people come to Auli to see snow. It is possible from December onwards. Auli sees a lot of traffic during these months.

You can reach Auli via the Auli ropeway or drive to the top. The Auli ropeway is 3.6 km from Joshimath. The ticket for the Auli ropeway costs Rs. 1,000 per person. There are no tickets for children below five years. You can also take the chair lift. Another way to reach Auli is by road. It is a 15 km drive from Joshimath.

MANA VILLAGE

India’s last village, Mana village, is a must-visit when in Badrinath. Do not confuse this with Mana pass. The two are different. Mana Pass requires a prior permit, which is difficult to obtain, whereas Mana village is the last village and is easily accessible. There are several places to visit in Mana village. Click pictures at India’s last grocery store. Visit the Bhim Shila, a bridge created by Bhim, to help Draupadi cross the Saraswati river. Also, have a cup of tea at India’s last tea stall. Marvel at the origin of the Saraswati river.

Start the tour by visiting the tea stall first and then head to Bhim Shila. This way it is less tiring. It’s better to roam the village with a guide if you are interested in the hamlet’s history. It takes about 2 hours to walk around the village. You can combine visits to the village and Badrinath temple. 

Here’s an elaborate guide to India’s last village, Mana.

BEST TIME TO VISIT CHAR DHAM

The Char Dham temples are open for 6 months only from May to October. The idols relocate to other temples during winters for six months. The temples are closed from November to April.

May, September, October are peak months, and it gets crowded. To avoid crowds visit in the first week of June or mid-October. The monsoon months are unsuitable for travelling to the Char Dham. It is a mountainous region and prone to landslides. Also, trekking in the pouring rain is unwise.

Even if you are travelling during peak months, the best way to avoid crowds is to go to the temples in the afternoon. By then, most tourist vehicles have left.

Are you planning on travelling to the Char Dhams in winter? In November, all the temples are closed and the idols relocate to other temples. The Shani Dev temple in Kharsali is the adobe of Goddess Yamuna during winters. Goddess Gangotri is taken to Mukhba village, 20 km away. The idol of Baba Kedar (Shiva) rests at Omkareshwar temple in Ukhimath during winters. The Utsav moorti is taken to the Narsimha temple (near Tattva hotel) in Joshimath, whereas the stone idol of Badri Vishal remains in the temple.

*NOTE:- Soon, the dates for the Char Dham yatra, 2022, will be released.

THE DOs WHEN TRAVELLING TO THE CHAR DHAM

My recent road trip to Uttrakhand was a surprise. I thought that it would be too crowded like Manali and Shimla. It wasa bit packed but not as much as I was expecting. What surprised me was the untouched beauty of Mother Nature. I could not believe that I was actually in India. It was a memorable experience. I want the same for you. So, I have listed down below all the dos.

• If you are travelling during October, carry lots of warm clothes. At night the temperatures are low and can fall to almost 6 degrees or more.
• Book hotels in advance especially, if you are travelling during peak months, especially at Kedarnath. Rooms get sold out quickly.
•  If you take the helicopter to Kedarnath, book tickets online in advance. If you are lucky, you might find some availability. But the chances are low.
• If you are self-driving, always keep an eye on the fuel gauge. Finding petrol pumps is quite hard. You can find petrol pumps in big towns. Also, petrol pumps in some areas have only petrol or diesel. So be sure to ask before fuelling.
• Always carry extra strips of medicine because finding pharmacies is a bit difficult. Even if you find one, they have limited supplies and might not have your required medication. It happened to me. Also, carry altitude sickness medicines.

THE DON’Ts WHEN TRAVELLING TO THE CHAR DHAM

The don’ts are just as important as the dos. Below is a list of all the don’ts to ensure you have a safe and memorable trip.

• Do not undertake the Kedarnath trek if you are physically unfit. It is a 21 km trek and takes 7-8 hours to reach the temple. Booking a helicopter or hiring horses and doli (palanquins) is the better option. The same goes for the Yamunotri trek. Compared to Kedarnath, the distance is short. But that 5 km are just as tiring and gruelling. So hire a horse, doli (palanquin) or pithu (like in the movie Kedarnath).
• Avoid travelling during monsoons. It is a mountainous region and prone to landslides. It doesn’t mean that it rains only from June to September. Unexpected rainfall is a common occurrence. So always be prepared.
• Do not be picky about the food. All restaurants serve only vegetarian food. Most have limited menus because they have to travel far to buy supplies.
• Avoid carrying Rs.2000 or Rs. 500, notes. Many shopkeepers do not have change so, bring smaller notes. Also, very few shops accept G-pay, PhonePay etc. Cards are rarely accepted.
• When planning your Char Dham yatra, don’t forget to have a minimum of 2 buffer days. Sudden weather changes or road construction might cause delays. So, have buffer days.

CONCLUSION OF THE CHAR DHAM YATRA

I know I have mentioned a long list of dos and don’ts. Many people might be rethinking the idea of visiting the Char Dhams, but it wasn’t my intention to scare you off. I didn’t want you to encounter the same problems I did. But that’s what travelling is all about. It’s about experiencing new things and discovering different shades of yourself.

Therefore I highly recommend taking a road trip to the Char Dhams. I promise you will not be bored even for a second. The Char Dhams cater to every traveller, be it adventurers, devotees, nature lovers, hikers, driving enthusiasts, history buffs etc. Rows and rows of mountains greet you at every corner, and its beauty is unrivalled.

So without further delay, plan your road trip to the Char Dham. I hope this post encourages and ignites your wanderlust because

The best view comes after the hardest climb

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