In this Varanasi guide, you will find everything you need to know for your trip to Varanasi. Varanasi is the world’s oldest inhabited city. Varanasi, Kashi, Benaras and Banaras are the city’s various names. Devotees come to wash away their sins, to perform the last funeral rites and scatter the ashes of deceased ones in the Ganges.

Varanasi is a sacred Hindu pilgrimage centre. According to scriptures, Shiva established Varanasi. Lord Shiva established the city of Varanasi. During the battle between Brahma and Shiva, the latter cut off one of the five heads of Brahma. Shiva, to announce his victory carried the severed head with him. When he reached Varanasi, the head fell and disappeared. Since then, Varanasi considered the holiest Indian city.

This Varanasi guide will cover the following topics—

• HOW TO REACH VARANASI?
• COMMUTING WITHIN VARANASI
• PLACES TO VISIT IN VARANASI
• EATERIES TO VISIT IN VARANASI
• BEST TIME TO VISIT VARANASI
• WHERE TO STAY IN VARANASI ?

HOW TO REACH VARANASI?

Varanasi is India’s holiest city and is visited by thousands of devotees all year round. You can travel to Varanasi via aeroplanes, trains and roads.

FLIGHTS:- Lal Bahadur Shastri International airport is 23 km from Varanasi city centre and takes 40 minutes. Flights from Bengaluru, Delhi, Pune, Mumbai, Kolkata to Varanasi are available.

TRAINS:- Varanasi Junction railway station is 1.7 km from the city centre. Banaras railway station is 4 km away and takes 15 minutes. Public transport is available from outside the railway stations. Trains to Varanasi are available from several Indian cities.

ROADS:- When travelling within India, I prefer driving. Road trips are a fun and adventurous way of exploring India. If you too like taking road trips, this section is for you. I travelled to Varanasi from Pune in the first week of November 2021. It took me two days to arrive at Varanasi. Below mentioned is the road distance between various cities and Varanasi.

• Pune:- 1439 km
• Mumbai:- 1483 km
• Bengaluru:- 1824 km
• Kolkata:- 685 km
• Delhi:- 840 km

COMMUTING WITHIN VARANASI

Varanasi is a city with closely-packed buildings. You have to navigate narrow alleys to reach the Ghats and other attractions. It is confusing for tourists and travellers, and they might get lost. If you are self-driving, parking can be an issue at most sites. So the best option is to hire an auto for the entire day.

During my stay in Varanasi, I hired an electric auto for the entire day. I gave the auto driver the list of all the places I wanted to visit. After negotiating the price, I was on my way. Also, using local transport can shed new light on your city experience.

There are advantages of hiring an auto for the day. The first advantage is, you don’t have to worry about getting lost. Second, you don’t have to navigate narrow and crowded streets and lanes. Third, you don’t have to worry about finding a parking space. Lastly, you get to an authentic experience of touring the city as a local.

PLACES TO VISIT IN VARANASI

What do you picture when you think about Varanasi? I imagine the Ghats along the Ganges. I’m sure that’s the case for many. The Ghats are the city’s highlight, but other attractions are also worth visiting. For example, the Shri Kashi Vishwanath temple, is another highlight and a must-visit.

You can explore the main attractions of Varanasi in one day. Three days is sufficient time to leisurely tour the city. In my Varanasi guide, I have listed all the places to visit in and around Varanasi.

• Sandhya aarti at the Ghats
• Shri Kashi Vishwanath Mandir
• New Kashi Vishwanath Mandir
• Ramnagar Fort
• Wat Thai Sarnath temple
• Dhamek Stupa
• Boat ride on the Ganges and tour of the Ghats

WAT THAI SARNATH TEMPLE

The Wat Thai temple is a Buddhist temple. Gautam Buddha gave his first sermon in Sarnath. Therefore it is a Buddhist pilgrimage site. The temple has a sloping roof and resembles the structure of temples in Thailand. In Thai, “Wat” means temple. Therefore the name Wat Thai, meaning a Thailand temple The temple houses a gold statue of Buddha. Aside from this, there are other Buddha statues around the temple complex.

Buddha was enlightened at Bodh Gaya under a Bodhi tree. In Sri Lanka a tree was grown using the branch of the Bodhi tree from Bodh Gaya.The founder of the Maha Bodhi Society brought a stem of the Bodhi tree in Sri Lanka and planted it in Sarnath. You can see this tree in the garden. A buddha statue draped with a gold shawl sits under the Bodhi tree.

The tall statue of Buddha standing on a lotus is another highlight of the temple complex. The Thai dignitaries built this statue in 1933. The statue faces a rectangular pond. The pond is covered with lotuses and has two gold plated sculptures. One is of Mahamaya Devi, and the other is Gautam Buddha.

It takes 20 minutes to walk around the temple complex. Sarnath is 9.5 km from Varanasi city centre and takes 25 minutes to reach. TIMINGS:- The temple complex is open from 8 am – 4:45 pm TICKETS:- Free.

LOCATION:- 92HC+8PC, Sarnath, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh 221007.

DHAMEK STUPA

Gautam Buddha, after enlightenment, gave sermons to five disciples at Sarnath. He then sent them to different countries to preach Buddhism. The Dhamek Stupa marks the place of Gautam Buddha first sermon post-enlightenment.

The original Stupa was very small. After Gautam Buddha’s death, Emperor Ashoka built the current Stupa and buried the former’s ashes inside. There is no doorway or opening to enter the Stupa. So, there is no way to confirm this fact.

After that Sarnath, became a centre for art and Buddhism. Devotees from across the globe came to Sarnath to study and practice Buddhism. Ashoka and other rulers built monasteries for monks during their reigns. But only the ruins remain. You can visit and explore the ruins.

It takes 45 minutes to explore the ruins and visit the Dhamek Stupa. The compound is a 2-minute walk from the Wat Thai Sarnath temple. The complaex consists of the Dhamek Stupa and the monastery ruins. TIMINGS:- The monastery ruins and Dhamek Stupa are open from 6 am – 5 pm. TICKETS:- There is a combined ticket for the Dhamek Stupa and the monastery ruins. It is Rs. 20 for Indians and Rs.100 for foreigners. There is an additional charge of Rs. 30 for cameras.

LOCATION:- Dharmapala Rd, Singhpur, Sarnath, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh 221007.

RAMNAGAR FORT

The Ramnagar fort is a 250 years old fortress on the banks of the Ganges. Kashi Naresh Maharaj Balwant Singh built the fort in the Mughal style of architecture. Anant Narayan Singh, the presiding King, resides here.

The fort is poorly maintained. The walls are falling apart. The entry gate was once grand, but that’s not the case anymore. There is a small museum inside the fort. The museum houses gold, silver palanquins, swords and guns from abroad, costumes of the finest silk, jewellery and more.

The fort was once grand but it has lost its former glory. I recommend visiting Ramnagar fort only if you are interested in the artefacts in the museum. I spent less than 20 minutes at the fort.

The one good thing about my visit to the fort was the sweet lassi. There is a small shop near the fort. As soon as you cross the bridge to Ramnagar, on the right side there is a blue colour shop. It is famous for its lassi. If you visit Ramnagar, don’t forget to try the lassi.

NOTE:- There is no parking space near the fort.

TIMINGS:- The fort and museum are open from 10 am – 5 pm. TICKETS:- Entry to the fort is free but, you have to purchase a ticket for the museum.

TICKET	INDIAN	FOREIGNERS
Adult	Rs. 75	Rs. 200
Child (between 5 – 12 years)	Rs. 20	Rs. 100
Student ( Up to 10th std. Present your ID cards at the counter.)	Rs. 20	—
Police,Defence or Security Personnel (Show IDs at the ticket counter)	Rs. 20	—

LOCATION:- Varanasi Rd, Ram nagar, Ramnagar, Uttar Pradesh 221008.

BOAT RIDE ON THE GANGES AND TOUR OF THE GHATS

Ghats refer to steps leading to the river. Varanasi has 88 Ghats, and each has its charm and serves a different purpose. The Ghats date back to the 14th century. But in the 18th century, the Marathas rebuilt most Ghats. A few Ghats are private properties, and some are associated with Hindu mythologies and legends.

There are two ways to reach the Ghats. You can take an auto to the Ghats or rent a boat. Autos are the best option to get to any Ghat. The Ghat entrances are in small and crowded alleys. If you want to tour all the Ghats, then a boat ride on the Ganges is the way to go. You can rent a boat at any Ghat.

There are two types of boats. One is a sharing boat, and the other is a private boat. Both the boats look the same. A sharing boat means you and other families/customers share one boat. You have to wait until at least ten people have boarded to set sailing. The prices are lower for this type of boat. The price la start at Rs. 250 onwards. Private boats mean that only one family rents a boat. This type of boat is pricey. Depending on the group size, the prices can vary. But it’s better to negotiate.

Manikarnika Ghat, Darbhanga Ghat, Dashashwamedh Ghat, Assi Ghats are the famous Varanasi Ghats.

DARBHANGA GHAT

Bollywood movies sets in Varanasi always feature the Darbhanga Ghat.

The Darbhanga Ghat is the extension of the Munshi Ghat, which gets its name after Sridhara Narayan Munshi, Nagpur’s finance minister. In 1915, the King of Darbhanga purchased the Munshi Ghat. They later expanded the Munshi Ghat and named it Darbhanga Ghat.

The Darbhanga Palace is here. The Darbhanga royal family enjoyed watching the pujas and ceremonies performed on the Ghats. Therefore the Darbhanga Palace was built.

Later the palace was purchased by a hotel group. The palace is now BrijRama Palace.

It is one of the well-maintained Ghats. You can reach here by boat and by road. But finding a parking space nearby is not an easy task. A better option is to rent an auto for the day.

MANIKARNIKA GHAT

The Manikarnika Ghat is the oldest and holiest Ghat. There are various legends regarding the name.

One version states that Sati’s earring fell here. So it is known as the Manikarnika Ghat (“Mani” means pearl and “Karnika” means earring).

Daksha Prajapati, son of Brahma and Sati’s father, was unhappy with Sati and Shiva’s marriage. Daksha purposely didn’t invite Shiva and Sati to a yagna. Sati went to the yagna uninvited. Daksha tried to humiliate Shiva and Sati. Sati was enraged, and to save her husband’s honour, lit herself on fire. Shiva took his wife’s blazing body to the Himalayas and started doing the destructive Tandav. Shiva’s grief over his wife’s death moved Vishnu. Therefore he sent his Sudarshan Chakra, a sharp-edged wheel to cut the body into 51 parts. The parts fell in different places on earth. Temples of Shakti are at each site. Sati’s earring fell here, and therefore it is known as Manikarnika Ghat.

Another version states that Shiva and Parvati came to Kashi. Lord Vishnu then dug a Kund for the couple to bathe. Shiva’s earring fell into the Kund, and therefore the name.

It is the holiest of all Ghats and is the cremation site. Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats are the main cremation sites. All day long, you can see funeral pyres burning.

DASHASHWAMEDH GHAT AND GANGA AARTI

Dashashwamedh Ghat is Varanasi’s main attraction. According to scriptures, Brahma created it to welcome Shiva. Another legend states that Brahma performed the Dasa-Ashwamedha yajna and sacrificed ten horses.

Every evening devotees flock here to attend the Ganga Aarti. Brahmins in dhotis and kurtas perform the aarti. The aarti commences with the sound of the conch (shankha) shells and burning incense. The aarti begins at 7 pm and lasts 45 minutes.

There are two ways of watching the Ganga Aarti. You can sit on the steps or your boats. People arrive early to find seats. Ask your boat captain to reach here as early as possible. If you arrive late, you will have to sit far away. Many people also book tickets for the cruise boats. The big cruises are behind all the small boats. So, I recommend either watching the aarti from the steps or the smaller boats.

I was lucky enough to visit Varanasi during Diwali. Diyas and oil lamps decorated the steps. During the 45 minutes, aarti spirituality blanketed the area. This feeling stays with you long after the aarti is over. A trip to Varanasi is incomplete without attending the Ganga Aarti. It is something everyone will enjoy.

TIMINGS:- The aarti begins at 7 pm and lasts for 45 minutes. TICKETS:- The Ganga Aarti is free for all.

SCINDIA GHAT

Scindias built this Ghat in 1830, and hence, the name.

The Scindia Ghat is adjacent to the Manikarnika Ghat and is known for the submerged Shiva temple. The ghat overweighed the temple, and thus it submerged underwater. The inner sanctum is submerged but the tiered Shikhara is visible. When the water level lowers, the temple’s inner sanctum is visible. Locals believe that the temple is slowly sinking, and soon the shikara will be submerged underwater.

Agni, the God of fire, was born here. People perform pujas and ceremonies and appeal to Vireshwara for a son.

NEW KASHI VISHWANATH TEMPLE

This temple is a copy of the Shri Vishwanath Mandir. Therefore, it is known as the New Kashi Vishwanath Mandir. The new temple is in the renowned Benaras Hindu University.

The Birla family built the temple. Therefore it is also known as the Birla temple. It is Pandit Madan Mohan Malaviya’s idea. His statue stands outside the temple.

The temple idolised Shiva. The shrines of other gods such as Durga, Hanuman, Ganesh and others can be found inside the temple. Also, you can find Hindu scriptures etched on the inner walls.

The temple’s highlight is the shikhara. It has the world’s tallest shikara standing at 250 feet.

TIMINGS:- The temple open at 4 am and closes at 12 pm. The temple reopens at 1 pm and is open till 9 pm. TICKETS:- Entry is free.

LOCATION:- Banaras Hindu University Campus, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh.

SHRI KASHI VISHWANATH MANDIR

There are twelve Jyotirlingas, meaning temples dedicated to Shiva. The Shri Kashi Vishwanath Mandir in Varanasi is one. Shiva established Kashi. Therefore this temple is the holiest of all Jyotirlingas.

The temple was damaged numerous times. Ahilya Bai Holkar, in 1780, reconstructed the current temple. The temple houses the Linga and shrines and temples of other gods such as Parvati, Vishnu, Ganesh and others.

The temple is famous for its gold domes. Maharaja Ranjit Singh donated gold to build the temple domes in 1835.

TIMINGS:- The temple is open from 3 am to 11 pm. TICKETS:- Entry is free.

TIP:- If you don’t want to miss the Ganga Aarti, visit the temple as early as possible.

EATERIES TO VISIT IN VARANASI

During my stay in Varanasi all I remember eating is street food. I think it was only once that I ate a proper lunch. Varanasi is all about street foods. If you come to Varanasi, don’t forget to sample the lassi and chaats. Here are some of my favourite eateries in Varanasi.

• SHIV PRASAD LASSI BHANDAR I accidentally came across this tiny shop. I was visiting the Ramnagar Fort, when my auto driver insisted I try the lassi here. It was a small corner shop. According to my auto driver, it served the best lassi. After looking at the shop, I had my doubts. They serve cold lassi topped with a spoonful of malai in earthen cups. A spoonful of lassi, cleared all my doubts. I once again learnt not to judge a book by its cover. They have a small seating area for 2-3 tables. If you visit Ramnagar fort, don’t forget to try the lassi here.

LOCATION:- 72CG+94P, Ramnagar Fort, Ram nagar, Ramnagar, Uttar Pradesh 221008.

• DEENA CHAT BHANDAR If you are in the mood for chaat, then head over to Deena Chaat Bhandar. This small place is always overflowing with locals and tourists. The interiors are clean and plain. Here you can find different chaats, kulfis and more. They provide quick service and food is served hot. Everything on the menu is delicious, so I can’t recommend any particular food. But my favourite was the Malai faluda kulfi. Dinner at Deena Chaat Bhandar is the perfect ending to the night.

LOCATION:- Hanuman Mandir, Ramapura Luxa Rd, Luxa, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh 221001.

BEST TIME TO VISIT VARANASI

Varanasi is overflowing with devotees all year long. However, the best time to visit Varanasi is winter, from November to February. I was in Varanasi for Diwali. Devotees decorate the Ghats with light diyas and oil lamps. I highly recommend celebrating Diwali in Varanasi. Every year, a few days after Diwali, thousands of diyas decorate the Ghats. The boat prices sky rocket during these days. The boats charge as high as Rs. 20,000.

During the monsoon months or during heavy rainfall the water level rises. Many Ghats are partially submerged. If you don’t mind a little rain, you can visit Varanasi from June to September.

The temperatures are high during the summer months, from March to April. It is too hot.

However, you can visit Varanasi all year round.

WHERE TO STAY IN VARANASI?

Varanasi offers a wide range of accommodations. For example, here you can find 2-star, 3-star or 5-star hotels and guesthouses. Listed below are hotels ranging between 3-star to 5-star.

• RADISSON HOTEL I stayed here during my time in Varanasi. You can never go wrong with Radisson. I mean, who dislikes the idea of staying at a 5-star hotel? Not me. The hotel staff is efficient and hospitable. I reached the hotel late at night and was tired. Thankfully the manager quickly completed all formalities, and I was in my room within minutes. The hotel is enormous, and offers various services, such as ample parking, gym, spacious rooms, a pool and more. They have a variety of suites. For example, superior rooms and business rooms for triple sharing.

• HOTEL SURYA, KAISER PALACE Once a palace belonging to a King Kaiser of Nepal is now a luxury hotel. Want to experience staying at a mahal? Or away from the crowded streets of Varanasi? Then this is the place. The hotel offers every service possible – spas, cafes, restaurants and more. You name it, they have it. The garden is a crowd favorite. The rooms are spacious and hygienic. They have different types of rooms to suit your needs. For example, large rooms with balconies, compact rooms with French balconies and apartment-style family suites equipped with a dining room.

• TAJ GANGES I don’t think I need to write much. I mean, it is the Taj. The name says it all. They have 5 room options to suit different guests. So, for example, superior and deluxe rooms with city views, executive and deluxe suites and luxury rooms. All rooms have triple sharing. They provide numerous services – ample parking space, pool, multi-cuisine restaurants and much more.

CONCLUSION

Varanasi has mythology, history and religion. Therefore it is India’s holiest city. Varanasi caters to all, be it devotees and believers, foodies or history and mythological enthusiasts. For example, there are several sacred temples, mouth-smacking street food, Ghats associated with mythological legends.

Varanasi has a lot to offer. You need a minimum of two days to explore the main attractions. In this Varanasi guide, I have mentioned all the places you can visit and things to do. The Varanasi guide also includes accommodation options, eateries and more.

I hope this Varanasi guide is helpful. If you want me to add more points, let me know in the comments. I’m open to suggestions. During my visit to Varanasi, I also travelled to Gwalior. Are you planning a trip to Gwalior? here is a detailed guide to Gwalior.

I hope this ignites your wanderlust because

Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow.

anita Desai