Umling La, the world’s highest motorable pass, is the latest achievement of BRO (BOorder Road Organisation). Driving to or visiting Umling La is the newest item on my people’s bucket list. I was fortunate to have visited Umling La during my trip. And I want more and more people to travel here and appreciate the hard work and sacrifices of the BRO. To help you to have a hassle-free trip, I have written this Umling La guide.

I have covered the following topics in this Umling La guide.

• ABOUT
• ROUTE
• BEST TIME TO VISIT
• PERMITS
• ACCOMMODATIONS
• HELPFUL TIPS

ABOUT UMLING LA

Umling La is a mountain pass 105 km from Hanle and takes a few hours to reach. The pass lies between Koyul Lugpa and the Indus river, making it the world’s highest motorable road at 19,024 ft. Earlier the title belonged to the mighty Khardung La.

It took the BRO (Border Road Organisation) six years to construct the road. They lost many lives while working in the harsh winters and weather conditions. Umling La symbolises their hard work, sacrifices and achievement.

Umling La is a new destination, and few people have travelled here. So you will see few or no tourists aside from the officers. On the way to Umling La, you will come across a board saying, “You are now higher than Mt Everest base camp”. The pass is a few minutes from here.

At Umling La is a marker stating, “BRO welcomes you to the world’s highest motorable pass, Umling La”. After clicking pictures, visit the gallery a few metres away. It is a hall of fame. You can see photographs of the team involved in the pass construction. It also showcases the difficulties and challenges they faced during the six years. Next to the hall is a small cafe serving hot food. Also, opposite the restaurant is an “Oxygen Cafe” for those having trouble breathing. Umling La is at 19,024 ft, so oxygen is less, and people often have difficulty breathing.

Umling La is the last point where citizens are allowed. Demchok, a little further away, is the last Indian village from the Indo-China border. However, special permission is required to visit Demchok.

ROUTES

Hanle serves as the base for Umling La. Visitors arrive in Hanle and go to Umling La the next day. There are two ways to reach Umling La from Hanle- one is via Photi La, and the other is via Nerbole towards Demchok village. A guide is necessary to navigate both roads to Umling La because there are no signs to indicate the route. People often get lost and keep driving in circles. Also, the road to Umling La doesn’t appear on Google maps.

When travelling to Umling La, you need to be a skilled driver, and SUVs are preferable because there are water crossings and road construction is underway. It is better to travel with other vehicles as there is no help for kilometres. I travelled via the Nerbole road because Photi La was closed for some reason. The Nerbole route is beautiful, and the road is tar with some bad patches.

When travelling the Nerbole route, follow the stacked stones. The locals and past travellers have piled rocks and stones on both sides of the road. Keep following them until you see a board or milestone for Fukchey or Demchok village. The pillars are far away, but there are old tyre tracks to guide you.

*NOTE:- Always travel in groups because there is no help for kilometres, and there is no network in Hanle or Umling La. Also, acclimatise before travelling to Hanle and Umling La.

BEST TIME TO VISIT UMLING LA

June to September is the best time to visit Umling La. The pass is closed from October to April and sometimes in May due to snow. June is the best month because the roads have cleared. Also, the weather is pleasant and slightly warm, but you still need a jacket. The only downside is June is Ladakh’s peak season, so homestays in Hanle get occupied in the blink of an eye. July and August are monsoon months and are low season months. If you want to visit when there are no crowds, July and August are the months. But the roads are in bad condition due to the monsoon. September is the last month before the Umling La pass closes for winter. Also, there are fewer tourists during this time compared to June.

PERMITS

As of 2022, Indians don’t need an inner-line permit to visit Umling La. However, foreigners do need to apply for one before visiting Umling La. Foreigners can apply online on the government website.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Hanle is a small village with few accommodation options. It is a remote hamlet, so don’t expect 5-star facilities. All homestays and hotels have basic facilities. New hotels and homestays are opening up to accommodate the crowds. During peak season, pre-book hotels.

• PADMA GUEST HOUSE

Padma guesthouse is an old and favourite choice among travellers because it is one of the few to appear on Google Maps. Also, the Padma guesthouse is always fully booked. It is a small place on the edge of the village. The guesthouse has simple rooms with basic facilities.

There are several other homestays, but they are untagged on Google maps. Also, a lot of them don’t have names yet. I stayed at a homestay near the observatory. The homestay is near the only market (shop) in Hanle. A couple runs the homestay. The rooms are clean and spacious and have three beds. Everyone has to share a bathroom. Only two rooms have an attached bathroom. The rooms are good, but the couple was a bit rude.

*TIP:- Even during peak season, you can find a room or two in Hanle. Many tourists come to Hanle in the afternoon. So you will have better luck finding a room or homestay in the morning when everyone leaves.

HELPFUL TIPS

• Carry at least 20 litres of extra fuel when travelling because the nearest petrol pump is in Leh. The other pumps are in Leh and Karu. You can find loose petrol for Rs.130 per litre and diesel for Rs.100 per litre in Durbuk, Nyoma, Spangmik, Merak and Hanle. Many times diesel s unavailable.
• Download offline maps or carry a map book because the mobile network is unavailable. Also, hire a guide from Hanle to take you to Umling La.
• Carry proper medication because there is no medical assistance nearby. And it takes hours to reach Leh.
• Bring plenty of cash because homestays don’t accept online or card payments. There are no ATMs nearby. A.so there is no network in Hanle and Umling La,
• Carry plenty of snacks and water. There are no houses or shops en route to Umling La.
• Wear warm clothes because the temperature drops at night.
• Pre-book homestay during peak season. Rooms get sold out quickly.
• Get acclimatised before travelling to Hanle and Umling La or higher altitudes because the nearest medical facility is Leh.
• Even during June, the temperature drops at night. Always wear warm clothes.
• The homestays offer simple vegetarian meals. They have simple items like bread and omelette, paratha and curd, tea, milk (goat) or coffee for breakfast. Dinner consists of a mixed veg sabzi, roti, rice and dal. It is because the vegetables come from Leh once a week. So they often have vegetables that are easy to store.

CONCLUSION

Umling La is a beautiful pass in Ladakh. If you are the adventure type or looking for off-beaten places, visiting Umling La is a must. Upon reaching 19,024 feet, you feel a sense of achievement and pride. Also, the road to Umling La is beautiful. It feels like you are the only person in the world. So, on your trip to Ladakh, do add Umling La to your itinerary.

I have tried to cover all the essential topics. If something is missing, please let me know in the comments. I hope this ignites your wanderlust because

We all deserve a little wanderlust.

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