AN ELABORATE CHITKUL TRAVEL GUIDE
It is an individual Chitkul travel guide. This article will include info about Chitkul, sightseeing, road conditions and route, and day trips from Chitkul.
Chitkul is the last Indian village in Himachal from the Indo-Tibetan border. That fact alone makes it worth visiting. However, that might not be reason enough for some. But what makes Chitkul or any Spiti village memorable is the unspoilt natural beauty.
I visited Spiti valley, Leh and Kashmir for over one month. If you too want to combine these three destinations, read “Spiti valley, Leh and Kashmir guide”. Or, if you only want to cover the Spiti circuit, read the “Spiti road trip guide”.
HOW TO REACH CHITKUL?
If you begin the Spiti circuit in Shimla, Chitkul is the first village on the route. Chitkul is a small hamlet in Kinnaur valley. From Shimla, Chitkul is 247 km and takes 8-9 hours to reach via NH 5.
The route from Shimla is as follows-
Shimla – Kufri – Theog – Narkanda – Rampur – Sarahan – Tapri – Sangla – Rakcham – Chitkul.
AIR:- Bhuntar airport is the nearest one to Chitkul. But it has limited arrivals. Therefore, Chandigarh airport, 366 km away, is the best option.
TRAIN:- Shimla train station is the closest one. Take the train from any city up to Kalka station. From here, take the toy train to Shimla.
BUS:- Buses are a great way to explore Himachal. However, the timings can change. So always ensure the bus timings. You can board the bus from Shimla to Rekong Peo. From Rekong Peo, there are buses to Chitkul.
TAXIS:- Shimla is a tourist destination, and taxis are readily available. You can hire taxis to travel to and from Chitkul and neighbouring villages. Shared taxis are also available. Taxis are budget-friendly only if you are travelling in groups. Drivers charge Rs. 3,000-3,500 per day.
THE ROAD TO CHITKUL
It takes an entire day to drive from Shimla to Chitkul. The road from Shimla to Narkanda is often busy. They are single-lane roads. Aside from that, the road conditions are good. The real fun begins after the Karcham dam.
The drive to Chitkul is scenic. On the outskirts of Shimla, you can find roadside stalls selling fruits. Grab a box of red cherries, plums and sweet and juicy peaches. You may find small waterfalls along the way.
The route runs parallel to the Sutlej river for a while. Soon the ascent begins. The roads are narrow, enough for one vehicle. Therefore it takes 2½ hours to travel 40 km. The hairpin bends make the drive adventurous and a little dangerous. But as you gain altitude, the views grow more beautiful.
I was behind schedule and had to travel from Panchkula to Chitkul. We left early but got stuck in Shimla traffic and had to drive in the dark to Chitkul. We arrived at our hotel around 9-10:30 pm. It was a mistake on our part. We shouldn’t have driven that road at night. At night the hairpin bends are difficult to notice. The entire way from Karcham, no cars were seen. I’m mentioning this so that others don’t make the same mistake. So try to reach Chitkul before sundown.
BEST TIME TO VISIT CHITKUL?
Chitkul is accessible to tourists for nine months, from March to November.
From December to February, Chitkul experiences heavy snowfall and resulting in road closures. Therefore avoid travelling to Chitkul during these months. Because once the road closes, you could get stranded there for months. The locals move to a lower altitude to escape the harsh winters.
In March, the road to Chitkul opens. The tourist season is just beginning, so there are fewer visitors in March.
April onwards, tourists start descending to Shimla. It continues through June. April to June months are the peak season. Therefore pre-book hotels during these months.
July to September are the monsoon months. It is the low season but avoid travelling during this time. Travelling to the mountains during monsoons is risky and inadvisable. Landslides often occur, leading to road closures.
September to October is the apple season. If you want to see the apple orchids in full bloom, this is the time.
October and November are autumn months. The winters are just starting. It is a great time to visit Chitkul. From November onwards, the temperature drops. It is your last chance to explore Chitkul before the road closes.
CHITKUL POINTS OF INTEREST
In the Chitkul travel guide, I’ve divided the sightseeing into three sections. They are — places to visit en route to Chitkul, sightseeing in Chitkul and villages around Chitkul.
This hamlet at 11,320 feet might be small in size. But the scenic views are in abundance. And the best way to explore the village is on foot.
Below is a list of places to visit en route to or from Chitkul.
- Karcham dam
- Kinnaur rock tunnel
- Kamru fort
Below is a list of places to visit in Chitkul.
- Baspa river
- Mathi temple
- Hindustan ka Akhri dhaba
- Indo-Tibetan border checkpost
In the Chitkul travel guide, I’ve mentioned other villages you can visit from Chitkul.
- Sangla
- Rekong Peo and Kalpa
- Kamru
PLACES TO VISIT EN ROUTE TO OR FROM CHITKUL
KINNAUR ROCK TUNNEL
The rock tunnel in Kinnaur is an ancient marvel. Men carved the rock and made the tunnel.
The rock tunnel is a little further from the Kinnaur border. But it is still known as the “Gateway to Kinnaur”.
It is a short tunnel, only a few metres long. But it makes for a good photo stop. 15-20 minutes is enough time to spend here. Also, stop for tea at the “Kinnaur ka pehla dhaba”.
*NOTE:- Park your vehicles away from the tunnel to avoid traffic jams.
THE KARCHAM DAM
Karcham dam is unmissable. The dam is at the confluence of the Baspa and Sutlej rivers. From here, two roads diverge. One road leads to Chitkul and the other to Rekong Peo. The Sutlej river runs parallel to the road to Rekong Peo, and the Baspa river runs along the Chitkul road. It is the main reason for visiting the Karcham dam.
The giant mountains create a pretty backdrop against the structure. And it is a scenic place for a quick photo op. 5-10 minutes is sufficient time to spend here.
KAMRU FORT
Many visitors don’t visit the Kamru fort because it is a 2-hour trek from Sangla village. And walking is the only way to reach here. Another reason is limited time. Many people only stay in Chitkul or Sangla for a night. I am one of those people. But if you have time, do visit Kamru fort.
It is a wooden watchtower and is closed to visitors. Only the Bushahr family is allowed inside. However, outsiders can visit the Kamru temple housing the 15th-century Badrinath shrine.
It takes 2 hours to hike to and from Kamru fort. So plan accordingly.
PLACE TO VISIT IN CHITKUL
MATHI TEMPLE
Mathi, the wife of Lord Badrinath, is the local goddess. Legend states that after she arrived at Mathi temple, Chitkul began to prosper. The temple is 500 years old.
The complex has three temples. All of them are wooden structures and have intricate carvings.
The temple was closed when I visited. You have to walk for two minutes from the main road.
BASPA RIVER
The valley gets its name after the Baspa river. Chitkul is one of the villages situated on the banks of the Baspa river.
The river originates on the Indo-Tibetan border and forms the Baspa valley. Much of the valley is uninhabited, except Chitkul to Karcham, where it meets the Sutlej.
When in Chitkul, spending time by the river is mandatory. You can walk or drive there. One bank of the river has rocks. The other has oak and pine forests. They paint a pretty picture.
*TIP:- All the daredevils can try soaking their feet in the icy water.
ITBP CAMP
Chitkul is the last place tourists can visit. Beyond this, the area is under the Indo-Tibetan border police. You can drive a little beyond the village. But tourists don’t have permission to cross after a certain point.
The road here is scenic and has few tourists. It’s a good place for profile photos.
HINDUSTAN KA AKHRI DHABA
The most happening place in Chitkul is the Hindustan ka Akhri dhaba. Don’t forget to eat the famous rajma chawal here.
Come here early, before the tourist buses arrive. While you wait for your order, take pictures of the “Hindustan ka Akhri dhaba” board. The stairs to the stall are a good place for photos.
Also, there are “Chitkul, India’s last village” and “Hindustan ka Akhri post office” boards near the stairs.
VILLAGES TO VISIT NEAR CHITKUL
SANGLA
Sangla is another village in the Baspa valley. It is a popular layover place for many tourists. Sangla is bigger than Chitkul and has more accommodations.
The hamlet is famous for the Bering Nag mandir dedicated to Lord Shiva. Every year a festival is held in August at the temple for the town’s welfare and its inhabitants. Sangla meadows are another beautiful place. From here, the Kinner Kailash peak is visible. You can also trek through the meadows.
Visitors can fish at the trout farm after getting permission from the fisheries department.
REKONG PEO AND KALPA
Rekong Peo and Kalpa are neighbouring villages. To reach Rekong Peo, you have to drive back to Karcham. At Karcham, two roads diverge. One leads to Chitkul and the other to Rekong Peo and Kalpa.
Rekong Peo and Kalpa are must-visit hamlets in the apple season from September to October. Here you can stroll in the apple orchards.
Tourists visit the suicide point in Kalpa. It is a point on the way where the road juts out into the valley. The steep drop made for some striking photos. Now a high railing is installed. But the views are still breathtaking.
KAMRU
Kamru village is close to Sangla. You can hike from Sangla to Kamru.
The hamlet is famous for the Kamru fort and the Lord Badrinath temple.
If time permits, do take the time to explore this settlement.
WHAT AND WHERE TO EAT IN CHITKUL?
Chitkul had a few dhabas and tea stalls along the main road. You can visit either one. However, the Hindustan ka Akhri dhaba is much prefered. If you are staying in homestays, often dinner and breakfast are included.
Now that you know where to eat, the question remains. What to eat? In Chitkul, you can find both vegetarian and non-vegetarian food. You can get non-veg mostly in hotel restaurants. However, if you want non-vegetarian food, inform the hotel or the restaurant beforehand.
The most common dishes are veg and chicken momos, plain or veg Maggie, tea, coffee and aloo or plain Paratha.
Chitkul is famous for its potatoes. So don’t forget to try any potato dish. Kinnaur is known for its Rajma. And eating rajma chawal is highly recommended.
I loved the rajma chawal at Hindustan’s akhri dhaba. The rajma was soft and seasoned well.
HOTELS IN CHITKUL
This section of the Chitkul travel guide includes the hotels in Chitkul. Chitkul is a small village with limited accommodations. However, new hotels and camps are sprouting.
Chitkul is the preferred place for staying. But many travellers stay in Rakchham or Sangla and come to Chitkul the next day.
ZOSTEL IN SANGLA AND CHITKUL
There is a zostel in both Sangla and Chitkul. It is a good choice if you are travelling on a budget.
Zostel has dorms, private rooms and tents. The rooms are clean. The zostel in Chitkul is on the main road, and the one in Sangla is on the outskirts.
The interiors and exteriors are good. Also, Zostel has several positive reviews on Google.
HOTEL SAMAA, CHITKUL
Hotel Samaa is opposite to Zostel. I stayed here. We were a family of 9 people. It was the only hotel that had four rooms available.
The rooms were spacious and clean, with an ensuite. The hotel interiors are ok. Rooms with a view are costly but worth it. From the rooms, you can see the Baspa valley.
The best thing about this hotel was the bed warmers and thick blankets. Because of that, we didn’t feel cold at all.
CHITKUL ITINERARY
I have considered Shimla as the starting point. At the beginning of the Chitkul travel guide, I’ve mentioned how you can arrive in Shimla.
- On the first day, depart from Shimla and head towards Chitkul. You will arrive in Chitkul around 4-5 pm.
- On day two, explore the town. After a hearty breakfast, walk down to the Baspa river. Stroll around the village and visit the Mathi temple. Drive to the ITBP camp. Or go on small treks.
- Depart from Chitkul on the third day. Stop at Kamru fort. Head to Rekong Peo or Kalpa for the night. Visit the suicide point in Kalpa.
- On the fourth day, visit the apple orchards (during apple season) before heading back to Shimla.
TIPS TO REMEMBER WHEN TRAVELLING TO CHITKUL
- Book hotels in advance during peak season. During the winter months, call before arriving. Many homestays and hotels close from November to March.
- The road from Karcham to Chitkul is narrow and winding. So avoid travelling on this road at night.
- Carry warm clothes no matter the season.
- Carry cash because cards don’t work. Many hotels don’t have internet, so online payment is unavailable.
- Don’t expect hot water. Many hotels and homestays don’t have geysers.
- Download offline maps or carry map books. Airtel and idea networks don’t have service in Chitkul. BSNL and Jio might work sometimes. Therefore Google maps don’t work.
- Fuel up before arriving in Chitkul. The nearest petrol pump is in Tukpa. It has recently opened. However, sometimes it may not have fuel available. So don’t rely too much on this fuel station.
CONCLUSION
Nestled in the Baspa Valley, Chitkul is paradise on earth. It is untouched by modernization. The hamlet has slate and wooden-roofed mud houses. Stay in nature’s lap in Chitkul.
If you want to explore Chitkul and other villages, you need at least 2-3 days. The best part is that all the sightseeing is free. There are no entry fees at any sights. Also, homestays and hostels are budget-friendly. Walking around these hamlets is the best way to explore them.
Chitkul is the perfect place to detox away from mobile networks and WiFi.
I hope this ignites your wanderlust because
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