Recently Spiti valley has gained immense popularity. It is the new road or bike trip destination. I have been planning a road trip to Spiti for quite some time. But due to various reasons, I had to postpone my trip. After months of planning and delays, I finally made it to Spiti. I wanted to share my experience and encourage more people to visit Spiti. So I created this Spiti road trip guide.

I will post individual guides for Chitkul, Kaza, Tabo and Chandratal. In these guides will be info regarding each town, such as routes, hotels, sightseeing, and road conditions.

ABOUT SPITI VALLEY

“Spiti” means the middle land. It is a cold desert between India and Tibet. Spiti is home to the world’s highest post office and the highest village connected by a motorable road. Spiti valley is home to the snow leopard. If you are lucky, you might even spot this shy cat. It is home to the beautiful Dhankar, Tabo and Key monasteries. Spiti valley is heaven on earth. Stunning views are present at every corner.

Spiti is a remote destination, meaning no internet or WiFi, electricity cuts, barren land for kms, homestays and few people. You have to drive for hours to visit a monastery or lake. Spiti valley is all about nature and finding inner peace. If that is not your jam, I suggest you find someplace else to visit.

However, if you want to get away from the city or are looking for an adventure, I highly recommend taking a road trip to Spiti. Also, for driving enthusiasts, this is a must-do road trip.

SPITI VALLEY CIRCUIT ROUTE

The Spiti circuit runs through major villages in Spiti valley. The route begins in Shimla and ends in Manali or vice versa. It takes 10-15 days to complete the circuit.

Shimla – Sangla / Chitkul – Rekong Peo and Kalpa – Nako – Gue – Tabo – Dhankar – Mud (Pin valley) – Kaza – Key – Kibber – Langza – Hikkim – Komic – Chandratal – Kunzum La – Rohtang Pass/ Atal Tunnel – Manali.

You can begin the circuit in Shimla and ends in Manali or vice versa. But that’s not what I did. I didn’t complete my Spiti circuit in Manali but continued to Ladakh and Kashmir. You can find the detailed route and itinerary in my post “Spiti valley, Leh and Kashmir road trip guide”.

HOW TO TRAVEL TO SPITI VALLEY?

Spiti valley is in the north-eastern part of Himachal Pradesh. It is common for tourists to take the train or fly to Chandigarh. From here, they hire taxis or bikes and head to Shimla. Shimla onwards, their Spiti tour begins.

AIR:- Chandigarh airport is 120 km from Shimla. From here you can hire taxis, bikes and cars. Or take the bus to Shimla.

TRAIN:- Chandigarh and Kalka train stations are the closest to Shimla. Both stations are well-connected by rail to several Indian cities. If you want to enjoy the toy train, stop at Kalka station. There are regular trains from Kalka to Shimla. It is cheap and has stunning views. The toy train takes 5 hours to reach Shimla from Kalka.

ROAD:- There are regular luxury buses from Chandigarh, Delhi and other neighbouring cities. Also, the golden quadrilateral connects all the metropolitan cities by road. Therefore, travel by road is easy.

*NOTE:- The best way to explore and experience India is by road.

BEST TIME TO VISIT SPITI VALLEY

The road from Kaza to Atal Tunnel or Rohtang Pass is closed from November to May due to snowfall. During these months, you can visit all the villages up to Kaza, but you cannot go to Chandratal and Kunzum pass. Also, I wouldn’t recommend visiting during these months because it is freezing. And many homestays and hotels are closed.

May to early July is the peak season. The Spiti circuit is open. If you are lucky, you might even see a frozen Chandratal. The temperature is pleasant. It is the best time to visit Spiti if you want to complete the circuit.

July to September is the rainy season. They are the low season. But avoid these months. The roads often get flooded and make travel difficult. Many times cars get stuck in the water crossings. Also, there is a high probability of landslides during this time. But if you want to experience the apple season, August to September is the right time.

October to November is the onset of winter. There are lesser crowds. Also, the trees turn varied shades of red, yellow and orange.

PLACES TO VISIT IN SPITI VALLEY

Numerous small villages form the Spiti valley. Visiting each hamlet is time-consuming. Therefore most visitors travel to the well-known hamlets. Here is a list of these villages.

• Chitkul
• Rekong Peo and Kalpa
• Nako
• Gue
• Tabo
• Dhankar
• Pin valley
• Kaza
• Kibber
• Langza
• Hikkim
• Komic
• Key
• Batal (Chandratal)
• Kunzum La

CHITKUL

Nestled in the Baspa valley is the tiny hamlet of Chitkul. Do you want to get away from the busy city life? Visit Chitkul. This small village has a lot to visit. A trip to Chitkul is incomplete without eating rajma chawal at Hindustan’s akhri dhaba. A pic with the board “Chitkul, India’s last village” is mandatory. Also, a visit to the Baspa river is a must. Wake up early to visit the 500-year-old Mathi temple.

I began my Spiti circuit from Shimla. So, Chitkul was the first village on the route. The drive from Shimla to Chitkul is long and tedious. It takes 8 hours to drive 242 km. Leave early to avoid the Shimla, Kufri and Narkanda traffic. The roads to Chitkul are narrow with blind turns. So drive carefully.

Don’t skip Chitkul. It is a beautiful place. I highly recommend visiting Chitkul. There are homestays, hotels and dorms in Chitkul. Or you can stay in Sangla and then go sightseeing in Chitkul.

Also read:- An elaborate Chitkul travel guide.

REKONG PEO AND KALPA

Rekong Peo and Kalpa are neighbouring villages. They are more developed than Chitkul.

Kalpa became famous after pics of the suicide point surfaced on Instagram. Earlier the suicide point made for some striking photos. But now, for safety reasons, a railing has been installed. The steep drop is no longer visible. Now an ” I ❤️ Kinnaur” sign sits there. The town also has some temples. If you want you can visit them. During my visit, two temples were closed.

Kalpa has many apple orchids. The apple season is from late September to early October. You won’t be able to see apples during other months. So if you are not travelling during apple season, I suggest you skip Rekong Peo and Kalpa.

Chitkul is 54.8 km from Rekong Peo and Kalpa and takes 2½ hours to reach. Shimla is 217.4 km and takes 6½ hours or more. Many people stay here and visit Chitkul on day trips. Here you can find hotels and homestays.

NAKO

Nako is the fourth village on the Spiti circuit.

It is a small hamlet with closely built mud and clay houses and narrow lanes. Visitors stop in Nako only for the night.

The Nako Lake is the village’s main attraction. It is a sacred lake. If you are visiting during October or winter, do pay a visit to Nako lake. In October, the trees around the lake turn different shades of red, yellow and orange. In winters, the lake freezes. Locals enjoy ice skating on the lake. During other months, if time permits, you can take a walk down to the lake.

Whether you should skip Nako or not? Don’t. If you are looking for a workcation, Nako is ideal for you. It is far from the busy streets of Manali and Shimla. And Jio and BSNL postpaid network work just fine in Nako.

Nako has several accommodation options. You can find dorms, hotels and homestays in Nako. Nako is 147 km from Chitkul and takes 5 hours to reach.

You can also refer to my post on Nako, land of the fairies.

GUE

Gue is known for the Gue mummy. It is a 500 years old mummy of a Tibetan monk, Sangha Tenzing. The mummy’s skin, hair and teeth are intact.

Gue is 46 km from Nako and takes 1½ hour. Many visitors travel to Gue on their way to Tabo.

TABO

The next village on the Spiti circuit is Tabo.

It is a small settlement on the banks of the Spiti river. The hamlet’s main attraction is the 1000-year-old Tabo monastery. It is the oldest working Buddhist monastery in India and the Himalayas. Also, Dalai Lama wishes to move to the Tabo monastery as it is the holiest.

Another attraction is the meditation caves on the hill behind the village. Hike to the caves for expansive views of Tabo.

Some visitors prefer staying in Tabo. They travel from Rekong Peo or Kalpa, visit Nako and move to Tabo for the night. Staying in Tabo is best if you plan to visit Dhankar lake.

Tabo is 64 km from Nako and takes 2½ hours to reach. From Rekong Peo, it is 161 km and takes 5 hours.

DHANKAR

Dhankar is 32 km from Kaza and 31 km from Tabo. You can visit the village from Kaza or Tabo on a day trip. Another option is staying in Dhankar.

Dhankar is on top of the mountain. It is known for the Dhankar lake and monastery.

The Dhankar monastery is 1000 years old. From here, you can see striking views of the valley. You can take cars up to the monastery. But you have to hike for 2 hours, each way, to reach Dhankar lake. I had to skip the lake because I arrived at Dhankar around 4 pm monk told me I should visit the lake the next day. It was late, and I wouldn’t be able to enjoy the lake’s beauty.

So if you want to hike to the Dhankar lake, keep aside sufficient time. The Dhankar Lake is an untouched gem and a must-visit.

PIN VALLEY

Pin valley is a cluster of small villages. Of all the hamlets, mud is the best-known. It is the last village of Pin valley. Mud is the preferred village when staying in Pin valley.

Pin valley is all about nature. The villages have gompas (monasteries) that you can visit. Also, it is where the snow leopard resides. You can hire a local and go on an expedition to photograph the shy cat. The other points of interest are the Pin valley suspension bridge and the Spiti river.

KAZA

Kaza is a town 50 km from Pin valley. Visitors stay here and travel to neighbouring villages. There is not much in terms of sightseeing in Kaza. But it has some points of interest.

A visit to the petrol pump in Kaza is mandatory. Here you can get a receipt that reads “World’s highest pump”. Next to the pump is an ” I ❤️ Spiti” sign. And a few metres away is a beautiful monastery.

You can visit the following villages over two days or complete the circuit in a day. Key, Kibber and Chicham are in one direction and Langza, Hikkim and Komic are in another.

KEY

The nearest village from Kaza is Key village. It is known for the Key monastery, stationed atop a hill. A visit to Spiti is incomplete without a trip to the Key Gompa. See the Spiti river from here.

After visiting Key monastery, drive 6.7 km to Kibber.

KIBBER AND CHICHAM

Kibber and Chicham are neighbouring towns. Both villages are worth a visit. However, many people skip out on Kibber and drive to Chicham bridge.

Kibber is known for its wildlife sanctuary and monastery. Whereas, Chicham is known for the Chicham bridge. Whether the bridge is the highest in the world? I don’t know. Some say yes, and some say no. But is it worth visiting? Yes. Earlier to go to Kibber you had to travel 2-3 hours. Now one can reach it within minutes.

LANGZA

Many visitors combine visits to Langza, Hikkim and Komic.

Langza is a tiny settlement that made its mark on the map because of the Buddha statue. The 1000-year-old statue sits facing the beautiful valley and snow-capped mountains. The hamlet is best known for its remote location and the striking views of Chau Chau Kang Nilda peak.

Another reason for visiting Langza is the adventurous drive. On the way, marvel at the deep gorges.

*NOTE:- Arrive early to avoid crowds.

Afterwards, drive for 10-15 minutes to Hikkim.

HIKKIM

What makes Hikkim famous is that it has the world’s highest post office. Imagine posting a letter to your friends and family from the highest post office. The post takes 20-25 days to arrive. I sent myself a post but have yet to receive it.

Also, a post box is being erected further from the village. I’m unsure if it’s for recreational purposes or an actual post box.

Drive to next village after posting a letter and taking pictures with the “Welcome to Hikkim, World’s highest post office” signboard.

KOMIC

Located at 4587 m altitude, Komic is the highest village connected by a motorable road. Meditate at the gompa before heading to the “World’s last restaurant”.

By the time most visitors arrive here, it is lunchtime. So, the restaurant is often overflowing with hungry patrons. If you don’t want to wait, head back to Kaza for lunch.

It is the last village of the day trip from Kaza. You can also spend the night here or in other neighbouring hamlets.

KUNZUM LA (PASS)

Kunzum La (Pass) is a road that connects Kaza to Chandratal and Atal tunnel. The road closes in early November and reopens in June. So if you want to complete the Spiti circuit, ensure Kunzum La is open.

Also, the road conditions are bad. So if you are visiting Chandratal on a day trip from Kaza, leave at dawn.

On the way to Chandratal, you can see a gateway on the right. It is Kunzum Point. Here you can find stupas and prayer flags. Stop for a quick photo op.

CHANDRATAL

Chandratal or the moon lake is one of the must-visit places in Spiti. This clear water lake sits amid the mountains and is accessible only on foot. As the weather changes, so do the lake’s colour.

Chandratal is the last stop on the Spiti circuit before heading to Manali. The lake is 96 km from Kaza and takes 3-4 hours.

You can visit Chandratal on a day trip from Kaza. Or you can spend the night at Chandratal or in Batal.

NOTE:- The road from Batal to Rohtang Pass or Atal Tunnel is a dirt road and takes 4-5 hours. So, avoid driving this section after 4 pm, especially for families. There are no dhabas or villages till Rohtang.

WHAT FOOD TO EAT IN SPITI?

When travelling to faraway places, you should try local cuisine. Therefore in Spiti, try Spitian food.

So now the question is what to eat? Well, the most common food is Thukpa and momos.

But this is something many blogs and blogs don’t tell you. That Indians, Chinese cuisine is served quickly. And the local dishes take longer. It is because visitors don’t want to eat unfamiliar food. Also, many homestays don’t prepare Spitian food for their guests. They will make Spitian food only upon request.

Many vlogs and blogs say that there are limited food choices in Spiti. That’s not the case. You can find veg and non-veg food in most villages. Homestays usually serve rotis, one sabzi (mixed veg), rice and dal.

So when travelling to Spiti, don’t worry too much about eating only Maggie and momos.

SPITI ROAD TRIP ITINERARY

In this Spiti road trip guide, I’ve created an itinerary that begins in Shimla and ends in Manali.

• The first day is all about travelling. Drive from Shimla to Chitkul or Sangla via Kufri. Walk around Chitkul.
• On the second day, explore the remaining sights of Chitkul. Stop at Rekong Peo and Kalpa to visit the apple orchids and the suicide point. On the way to Nako, stop at the Khaab Sangam, the confluence of the Spiti and Sutlej rivers. Spend the night in Nako.
• Visit Nako lake. Spend the third day exploring Gue and Tabo.

*NOTE:- If you want to visit Dhankar lake, spend the night in Tabo or Dhankar.

• Pack your bags and head to Dhankar. On the fourth day, visit the Dhankar monastery and hike to the Dhankar lake. Later, head to Mud or Sagnam village in Pin valley for the night’s stay.
• Head to Kaza on the fifth day. Check in to your hotel.
• Spend the sixth day exploring Key, Kibber and Chicham.
• On the seventh day, explore the villages Langza, Hikkim and Komic.
• Drive to Chandratal on the eighth day. On the way, stop at Kunzum La (Pass) for a quick photo op.
• On the ninth day, drive from Chandratal to Manali via Rohtang Pass or Atal Tunnel.

ADDITIONAL INFO AND TIPS

• Indians don’t need prior permission to visit Spiti. But foreigners require an inner-line permit to visit Spiti. There are check posts at several places. Indians must register their vehicle number, the number of travellers, their next destination and phone number.
• Jio postpaid and prepaid and BSNL prepaid work in Kaza, Chitkul, Nako, Rekong Peo and Kalpa. Other networks have no service in Spiti.
• Remember to refuel your vehicles in Tukpa (en route to Chitkul). Diesel and petrol are available here. Another fuel pump is in Kaza.
• Carry cash. Internet doesn’t work, so online payment is impossible. ATMs are available in Kaza. But they have limited currency.
• Indian, Chinese and local cuisines are available. Most homestays serve only vegetarian food. They offer rotis, sabzi (mostly mixed veg), rice and dal.
• Download offline maps because Google doesn’t work there. Or make a written note of the route.
• Carry power banks. Sometimes there is no electricity.
• Ensure your hotel bookings several times. I booked a hotel in mud. Upon arrival, we found out they had given the rooms to other guests. We had to drive back to Sagnam. Luckily we found a homestay around 10 pm.
• When visiting Chandratal, carry plenty of water and food. Have lunch in Losar. There are no restaurants until Batal.

CONCLUSION

I’ve covered all the essential information in the Spiti road trip guide. I’ve mapped out the entire Spiti circuit route. The main villages and their points of interest are listed. You can alter the itinerary I’ve created. And lastly, I have made a list of tips and additional information. I hope this will be helpful.

Also, I have a request. Please stay up till late to see the starry night. I promise you won’t be disappointed. The starry sky is an unforgettable sight.

I hope this Spiti road trip guide encourages you to plan a Spiti road trip. Or it simply ignites your wanderlust because

Travel is recess and we need it.

Rick Steves