Remember the iconic scene from the movie “Chennai express”? Yes, that’s the waterfall I’m talking about. India’s fourth-highest waterfall, the Dudhsagar waterfall, is a hidden gem in Goa’s wilderness. The waterfall measures at a height of 310 metres and 30 metres wide and serves as a border between the Goa and Karnataka. The Mandovi river flows through Karnataka and falls in 4 tiers into the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife sanctuary in Goa.

The Mandovi river gushes down the rugged terrain in a sea of white milky foam and creates a breathtaking and unforgettable view. Just describing the scene makes me want to pack my bags and head to the falls this instant.

If you are searching for a monsoon weekend road trip destination, then Dudhsagar waterfalls is the one.

LEGEND OF DUDHSAGAR

There is a well-known legend about the Dudhsagar Falls.

According to the legend, the King of Ghats had a beautiful and kind-hearted daughter. She was an innocent and modest princess who believed in the purity of mind, heart and soul. She along with her handmaids regularly bathed in a nearby lake.

After bathing in the lake she drank milk from a gold jar laden with diamonds.

One day a handsome prince was wandering the area when her heard the maidens’ laughter and stopped to investigate.

When the prince saw them, the princess was dressed in bathing clothes. So, to protect her modesty the maidens poured the milk on her creating a cascading effect. The princess quickly dressed in her royal attire.

The white foamy water of the falls resembles the cascading milk that saved the princess. The term Dudhsagar translated in English means “milk sea”(Dudh: milk; Sagar: sea).

REACHING DUDHSAGAR FALLS

There are 2 ways to reach Dudhsagar. Either by road or rail. If you love a good driving I highly recommend going on a road trip.

Dudhsagar is accessible by road. Cities (Mumbai, Pune, Panaji, Bengaluru and Belgavi) are connected to the area by major roads.

• Mumbai- 578 km
• Pune- 436 km
• Panaji- 60 km
• Mudgaon- 46 km
• Belgavi- 80 km
• Bengaluru- 552.9 km

*NOTE: Private vehicles aren’t allowed directly to the falls. The cars are allowed till Kulem. You can park your vehicles near the Jeep stand.

You can either park your vehicles at a hotel and collect your tickets for the jeep ride or can commence trekking to the falls.

The nearest train station to the falls is Kulem railway station. From here you can hire a taxi to take you to the ticket counter to collect your tickets for the jeep ride to the falls or you can commence trekking from here.

Many of you might have seen the train halting on the bridge across the waterfalls in the movie “Chennai Express”. Earlier trains stopped briefly at the Dudhsagar station. But recently this station is banned to the general public.

TREKKING TO DUDHSAGAR FALLS

The Dudhsagar trek is exceedingly popular. Several companies organise trekking expeditions to the falls from Kulem or the Castle Rock railway stations. People from Bangalore and Pune have the option to trek from Kulem or Castle Rock railway stations. Mumbaikars can trek from Kulem railway station.

KULEM

From Kulem there are 2 treks to the Dudhsagar campsite: the mud road trek and the railway track trek.

The mud road trek is 12 km and the railway track trek is 11 km. Both take 5-6 hours each way. If you are confused which of the two treks to opt for, then you can combine the two. Begin the trek with the railway track trek from Kulem station and then from Sonalium continue onto the mud road trek.

CASTLE ROCK

Unlike the trek from Kulem, there is only one trek from Castle Rock railway station, that is the railway track trek. The distance between Castle Rock and the campsite is 14 km and takes around 7-8 hours.

*Note: Don’t forget to rent life jackets upon reaching Castle Rock station and at the Jeep stand. Life jackets are mandatory if you want to swim in the pool at the falls.

JEEP SAFARI TO DUDHSAGAR FALLS

Not interested in trekking for 7-8 hours but still want to visit the Dudhsagar waterfalls? Then you have the option of the Jeep safari. Book your jeeps at the jeep stand in Kulem. The jeep safari begins at the entrance of the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife sanctuary and is a 45 minutes ride to reach the waterfall.

Private vehicles aren’t allowed inside the sanctuary. Park your vehicles at the various designated parking areas. Then collect your tickets for the safari. The route to the falls is a mud track that is submerged during the monsoons. This means that you will be driving through a very rough road and experiencing extreme off-roading. It is 45 minutes of bouncing around in your seats. But that’s what makes this journey fun.

*Tip: Search on Google maps for Dudhsagar ticket counter or Dudhsagar Jeep stand.

Each jeep transfers 6-7 people. You have 1.5 hours to enjoy at the waterfall.

Ticket:

• ₹500 per person; You can book a jeep (7people) for ₹3500.
• Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife sanctuary: ₹100 per person.
• Life jackets (mandatory): ₹40 per jacket.
• Separate fee for cameras.

The waterfall is open from 9 am to 5 pm but the jeep safari stops at 2 pm. The jeep safari is closed from June – September due to heavy rains. The mud track gets flooded in some places making it impossible for vehicles to navigate.

RULES

• First- Rent life jackets at the ticket counter because they are necessary for swimming.
• Second- There are no lockers to keep your belongings. Your belongings are your responsibility.
• Third- There is a small fee for carrying plastic bottles. You have to bring back the plastic bottles. No littering.

DUDHSAGAR SWIMMING SITE

The fall is 10-15 minutes from the jeep safari drop-off point. You hear the thundering waterfall before you get a glimpse.

To reach the pool you have to climb over rocks. Huge rocks and trees enclose the pool on 3 sides and the waterfall on one side. This pool at the waterfall’s foot is dark emerald.

The pool is open for swimming but visitors have to wear life jackets before entering the water because the pool is deep.

The water is cold🥶. But I recommend a dip in the pool. You do not want to miss it. You can bathe under the waterfall. Weak swimmers can enter the pool but be careful of the strong water current. Stay near the rocks. If you don’t want to swim you can enjoy the stream forming from the waterfall. The stream is less crowded.

*Note: No proper places for changing. Most people just use the rocks as a curtain.

The pool offers majestic views of the waterfall and the railway bridge. Visitors eagerly await to watch the trains cross the bridge with the waterfall in the back.

The waterfall is stunning in October- December months when the waterfall flows in full capacity. In January and February, the waterfall is almost dried up. There is water in the pool at the foot.

*Tip: A dip in the pool is recommended. It washes away your weariness and invigorates you.

You won’t be aware of the time passing as you admire the waterfall and enjoy a dip in the pool.

WHERE TO STAY?

There are accommodations between Mollem and Kulem. These are a good option if you are visiting Dudhsagar for the weekend. The below-mentioned resorts are nature resorts. They provide eco-friendly room and huts with basic facilities. The resorts also offer activities and excursions to a spice plantation, jeep safari and waterfalls.

• Dudhsagar spa resort (6.4 km)
• Jungle Book (500 m)
• Nature’s Nest (11 km)
• Dudhsagar Farmstay (11 km)

Other options are staying in neighbouring cities – Panaji (60 km) and Belgavi (80 km). They are a little far from the Jeep stand and offer a wide range of accommodations.

Dudhsagar is very popular among trekkers, tourists and travellers. This is the perfect weekend destination. It can be visited as a day trip from Goa. Visit during October and November to enjoy the magnificence of the falls.

I hope this ignited your wanderlust for visiting different waterfalls because

The sound of water is worth more than all the poets’ words.

octavio paz