This article, ” Pangong Tso Guide”, is a detailed guide to planning a trip to Pangong Lake.

Pangong Tso is one of the highlights of Ladakh. So, a visit to this beautiful lake is a must. Pangong Tso is a high-altitude lake at 4225 m and extends from Ladakh to west Tibet. The majority of the lake is in Tibet and 40% in India. The entire lake is known as Tsomo Nganglha Ringpo and is divided into the Pangong Tso, Tso Nyak, Rum Tso and Nyak Tso. The Pangong Tso is in Ladakh and the Tso Nyak is in Tibet.

The water of the Pangong Tso keeps changing colours. Sometimes it appears emerald or varying shades of blue. The lake adds a splash of colour to the otherwise dull brown mountains.

If you’re planning a trip to Ladakh, refer to my Ladakh travel guide for a hassle-free journey.

In the Pangong Tso guide, I will cover the following topics.

• ROUTES
• TRANSPORTATION
• PERMITS
• BEST TIME TO VISIT
• MUST-VISIT PLACES AROUND PANGONG LAKE
• ACCOMMODATIONS
• ITINERARY
• HELPFUL TIPS

ROUTES

There are three routes to Pangong Tso. One is from Leh, the other one is from Nubra Valley, and the last one is from Tso Moriri.

Pangong Tso is 222.8 km from Leh and takes 6-7 hours to reach. The road conditions have improved, but it is a hilly area and takes longer. I’ve assumed Leh as my starting point because you need an inner line permit to visit Pangong Lake, and the DC of Leh-Ladakh issues them.

Leh – Shey – Thiksey – Karu – Chemrey – Chang La – Tangste – Lukung – Spangmik – Man – Merak

Spangmik, Man and Merak are small settlements on the banks of the Pangong Lake. Here you can find accommodations. You can stay in Spangmik, but if you want to explore more of the lake, keep driving up to Merak. The lake is visible beyond Merak, but there are no hotels beyond here.

From Leh, follow NH 3 up to Karu, then turn left onto Pangong Lake road. Keep driving till you see the lake.

Many visitors also visit Pangong from Tso Moriri, 365.7 km away. Earlier, there was no road between the two lakes. But recently, a new route has opened up. But there is a permit to travel this route because it is near the Indo-Tibetan’s Line of Actual Control. The road is small but scenic. Follow the Tsaka La road to Pangong Lake road.

Tso Moriri – Kyagar Tso – Kistmang – Nyoma – Rezang La – Chusul – Merak Man – Spangmik – Durbuk

Many visitors travel to Pangong Tso from Nubra valley or vice versa. This route is popular among tourists who are short on time. It is a single tar road, and the condition is good, but there are a few bad patches.

Hunder – Diskit – Khalsar – Rongdu – Agham – Shyok – Durbuk – Tangste – Muglib – Lukung – Spangmik – Man – Merak

HOW TO REACH PANGONG LAKE?

any visitors travel to Ladakh through a travel agent, so they don’t have to worry about transportation. But it’s different if you are travelling on your own. You can hire a private or shared taxi or private mini-bus from Leh to Pangong Lake. Depending on your duration, the prices will differ. You can hire private or shared taxis and matadors solely for Pangong Tso or the entire Ladakh tour. Taxis charge around Rs. 10,000 per vehicle.

Visitors prefer staying near Pangong Lake. They travel from Leh and spend the night at Durbuk, Spangmik, Man or Merak before returning to Leh. If you’re short on time, you can visit Pangong Lake on a day trip from Leh. Start as early as possible, so you have plenty of time at the lake. The rates of taxis and private buses for a day trip and overnight stay differ.

Buses are another option. The 6:30 am bus leaves from the Leh bus stand to Pangong Lake (Spangmik) on Saturdays and Sundays. The return bus from Pangong (Spangmik) to Leh leaves at 6:30 am on Sundays and Mondays. There are only two buses weekly to and from Pangong Lake. So plan your trip accordingly. The one-way bus ticket costs around Rs. 260 per person. Book your tickets the previous evening.

PERMITS

To travel to Pangong Lake, you need an inner-line permit, which can be applied online or manually at the DC office in Leh. The checkpoints on the routes to Pangong inspect the certification.

Not all routes to and from Pangong need an inner-line permit. But the roadway from Chusul requires approval. So, don’t forget to select that route when submitting the application form.

Refer to my Ladakh inner-line permit guide for a detailed article.

BEST TIME TO VISIT PANGONG TSO

Pangong is beautiful in every season. But when is the best time to visit Pangong Lake? It depends whether you want to see a winter wonderland or a blue sparkling Pangong Lake.

October onwards, Ladakh receives snowfall. Winters in Ladakh are harsh, and temperatures fall to -20°C. Also, the camps in Durbuk, Spangmik, Man and Merak close in October. If you visit Pangong Lake in the winter, finding a place to stay is difficult. January and February are the coldest months. Pangong Tso freezes solid during this time. It is the best time to see a winter wonderland. The lake remains frozen until May. You can also visit in April when the weather is cold but not in the negative.

May marks the onset of summer in Ladakh. The lake starts melting as the temperature rises. May and June are the best time to visit Pangong. The temperature reaches 30°C during the day and drops to 6-7°C at night. Also, this is the best time to see the Pangong changing colours. June is the preferred month because that’s when the camps start opening. In May, you can find accommodations in Merak or further away in Chusul.

July, August and September are the monsoon months. Since Pangong Lake receives little rainfall, you can visit during monsoons. There are occasional showers. The maximum temperature during this time is 15°C and drops to 0°C at night. September is the best time to visit Pangong Lake before winter.

If you want to see a frozen Pangong Lake, March and April are the best months. But for a calm blue Pangong Tso, May, June, and September are the best months.

PLACES TO VISIT EN ROUTE TO PANGONG LAKE

There are several places to visit en route to Pangong Lake. There are three routes to Pangong – from Nubra valley, Leh and Tso Moriri. You can stop by the Thiksey and Hemis monasteries when travelling between Leh and Pangong Tso. While the Pangong-Tso Moriri road, pay your respects at the Rezang La War Memorial. There is no such attraction on the Pangong-Nubra valley road, but it is a beautiful and adventurous drive.

REZANG LA WAR MEMORIAL

Rezang La is a mountain pass in the Chusul Valley. It is known as Rezang La in India and Rechin La in China. In 1962 there was a war at Rezang La between India and China. 114 Indian soldiers died while preventing the Chinese troops from entering Chusul Valley. The Rezang La War Memorial is a symbol and reminder of the brave soldiers who sacrifice their lives to protect us.

You can visit this war memorial en route to Pangong Tso from Tso Moriri or Hanle. It is 60 km from Spangmik and takes 2-3 hours. Very few people travel this route, so this is not a renowned sight. The Rezang La War Memorial is a two-building complex in the middle of nowhere. The land is barren for kilometres. Upon arriving, a soldier will guide you. There is an enormous wall engraved with the names of the fallen soldiers. Up next is the museum. The weapons, mugs, helmets and other items riddled with bullet holes are displayed. On the second floor is the model of the Rezang La topography. The soldiers will explain the layout and point out the peaks under India and those of China.

Another reason for visiting Rezang La War Memorial is that it is a few km from the China border. The soldier who was guiding us showed us the Chinese bunkers. You don’t even need binoculars to see it. It is so near.

The Rezang La War Memorial is open all day from Monday to Sunday. And the entry is free.

HEMIS MONASTERY

The Hemis gompa is Ladakh’s wealthiest, massive and the seat of the Drukpa Kagyupa sect. Hemis monastery was established in 1672 AD by King Sengge Namgyal and re-established in the 11th century. It is a massive Tibetan-style gompa with a museum, prayer hall and more. Every year in June, the monks celebrate the Hemis festival here. It is a two-day festival, and the public can glimpse the thangkas (religious paintings). Also, a gigantic thangka is displayed every twelve years.

It is 196 km from Pangong Lake and takes 5-6 hours. You can visit the Hemis monastery en route to or from Pangong. People usually visit the Hemis Gompa on a day trip from Leh or while returning to Leh from Pangong Tso.

The Hemis Gompa is open every day from 8 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm. The lunchtime is 1-2 pm.

THIKSE MONASTERY

Sherab Zangpo founded the Thikse Gompa in 1433 in the Indus Valley. The founder of the Yellow hats, Je Tsongkhapa, sent six disciples to various areas in Tibet to preach and spread Buddhism. Sherab Zangpo was one of them. He met the King of Ladakh, who allowed him to establish a small monastery village. Later, Palden Zangpo, Sherab Zangpo’s disciple, built a bigger gompa on the banks of the Indus river. Therefore the Thikse Gompa is affiliated with the Gelug School of Buddhism. Je Tsongkhapa had predicted Buddhism would prosper on the right bank of the Indus river. The establishment of the Thikse Monastery proved it to be true.

The Thikse Gompa resembles the Potala Palace in Lhasa and is known as “Mini Potala”. It is a beautiful monastery on a hill. The main attraction is the 49 ft Maitreya Buddha in the lotus position. In 1970, the 14th Dalai Lama visited Thikse Monastery. They built the statue to celebrate his visit.

You can visit Thiksey Gompa on a day trip from Leh or en route to or from Pangong. The monastery lies 18.3 km from Leh and takes 30-40 minutes. The Gompa is open all week from 6 am to 1 pm and from 1:30 pm to 7 pm. The lunchtime is from 1 pm to 1:30 pm, and tea time is 4 pm to 4:15 pm. The entry ticket costs Rs. 50 per person. It includes visits to the Maitreya Buddha, Tara Temple, Gold and Silver stupa temple, main prayer hall, Mahakal temple and Mahakali temple.

WHERE TO STAY NEAR PANGONG LAKE?

This section of the Pangong Tso guide deals with the question, “Where to stay when visiting Pangong Tso?”. To answer this question, Pangong is a big lake, and Spangmik, Man, Merak and Durbuk have numerous camps and rooms.

Durbuk is the first village, Merak is the last, but Spangmik is the preferred option. If you want a place with a lake view, Spangmik, Man and Merak are good choices. There are many camps on the banks of Pangong Lake. However, many hotels close every year and new places sprout. Therefore ensure the hotels are open before booking.

No hotels or camps are allowed near the lake. All establishments are away from the shore. Also, cars are to be parked further away. Most accommodations have a lake view, but none are near the water. It is to protect the lake against pollution.

ITINERARIES

Many people visit Pangong Tso on a day trip from Leh. It is usually those who have limited time. But it is hectic and tiring. Therefore travellers prefer visiting Pangong over two days. Below is the itinerary for a two-day trip to Pangong Tso.

• On the first day, leave Leh early morning as the drive to Pangong Lake is long and takes 6-7 hours. Spend time at the lake, and watch the setting sun. Stay in Spangmik, Man, Merak or Durbuk for the night.
• Depending on your trip, either head back to Leh, drive to Nubra Valley or Tso Moriri on the second day.

HELPFUL TIPS

• Carry extra fuel when travelling because the nearest petrol pump is in Leh. The other pumps are in Diskit and Karu. You can find loose petrol for Rs.130 per litre and diesel for Rs.100 per litre in Durbuk, Nyoma, Spangmik and Merak.
• Download offline maps or carry a map book because the mobile network is unavailable near Pangong Lake.
• Carry proper medication because there is no medical assistance nearby. And it takes hours to reach Leh.
• Bring plenty of cash because many camps and hotels don’t accept online or card payments. There are no ATMs nearby.
• Carry plenty of snacks and water. Restaurants and dhabas are far and few.
• Wear warm clothes because the temperature drops at night.

CONCLUSION

In this Pangong Tso guide, I’ve covered the routes, transportation, accommodations, helpful tips, the best time to visit, itinerary, places to visit en route to and from Pangong Lake, and required permits. If you think I’ve missed anything, let me know in the comments.

I hope this ignites your wanderlust because

Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the things you did.

MARK TWAIN