A trip to Ladakh is incomplete without visiting Tso Moriri. Compared to Pangong Lake, Tso Moriri is less popular. But it is a must-visit when travelling to Ladakh. Are you travelling to Ladakh? Want to know how to plan a trip to Moriri and Kyagar Lakes? In this Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso guide, I’ve covered the following topics for a hassle-free journey.

• ROUTES
• HOW TO TRAVEL TO TSO MORIRI AND KYAGAR TSO?
• PERMITS
• BEST TIME TO VISIT
• PLACES TO VISIT NEARBY
• ACCOMMODATIONS
• ITINERARIES
• HELPFUL TIPS

Are you planning on visiting Ladakh but don’t know how to plan a trip? Refer to my Ladakh travel guide for a hassle-free journey

Tso Moriri is a high-altitude lake at 4522 m in the Tso Moriri Wetland Conservation Reserve. It is the largest mountain lake in India, spanning 28 km in length and 3-5 km in width. Also, it is home to unusual flora and fauna. On the way to Moriri lake is a smaller saline lake, the Kyagar Tso. It is 30 km away and sees few visitors. Travellers often drive by Kyagar Lake without stopping.

Like all the lakes in Ladakh, Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso are sacred. Therefore swimming and bathing in the lake are prohibited. Also, the water is icy and entering the water could cause hypothermia.

ROUTES

There are several routes to Tso Moriri. One road is from Leh, the other is from Pangong Lake, and the last is via Tso Kar.

LEH – TSO MORIRI

Leh to Tso Moriri route is the most common among tourists and travellers. It is 220 km and takes 5-6 hours. It is the best road if you have just arrived in Ladakh. Stay in Leh to acclimatise before heading to higher altitudes. Tourists visit Tso Moriri over a two-day trip from Leh.

Leh – Shey – Hemis – Karu – Upshi – Ikpadok – Chumathang – Mahe – Kyagar Tso – Tso Moriri – Karzok

The road conditions are good up to Kyagar Tso. There is no paved or tar road beyond the lake. Follow the tyre tracks of past visitors. Keep driving straight till you see Tso Moriri.

PANGONG LAKE – TSO MORIRI

Earlier, if you wanted to visit Pangong Lake, you had to return to Leh and then drive to Pangong. But now, with a new road, you can directly travel to Tso Moriri from Pangong Tso or vice versa. It takes 5-6 hours to cover 217 km. The road conditions are good, but there are a few bad patches. It is a single-lane tar road.

Spangmik – Man – Merak – Chushul – Nyoma – Mahe – Kyagar Tso – Tso Moriri – Karzok

TSO KAR – TSO MORIRI

It is the least popular road, and you will hardly see any vehicles. I travelled this route because I wanted to visit Puga valley and Tso Kar along with Tso Moriri. Follow this route if you are going to do the same. There is a diversion near Pang on the Leh-Manali highway to Tso Kar. Since Tso Moriri is less than 200 km from Pang, visitors can travel on this road. However, it is not advisable because Tso Moriri is at a high altitude. It could result in altitude sickness if you are unacclimatised.

Leh – Shey – Hemis – Karu – Upshi – Miru – Lato – Rumtse – Tanglang La – Debring – Pang-Debring intersection point – Tso Kar – Pologangka La – Puga Hot springs – Kyagar Tso – Tso Moriri – Karzok

The distance between Leh and Tso Moriri via Tso Kar is 232 km and takes 6-7 hours. And the distance between Tso Kar and Tso Moriri is less than 100 km and takes 3-4 hours. The road up to the diversion is a two-lane highway. But from there, it turns into a single-lane tar road up to Tso Kar. The road from Tso Kar is good but has several bad patches.

HOW TO TRAVEL TO TSO MORIRI AND KYAGAR TSO?

The only way to reach Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso is by road. You can arrive in Leh by plane or take the train to Jammu-Tawi station and reach Leh by bus or taxi. But to travel both lakes, you can hire a private or shared cab, rent a bike, take the bus or self-drive. Several travel agencies in Leh organise trips to Tso Moriri and Kyagar Lake.

However, only taxis or bikes hired from Leh can visit Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso. Rented bikes and taxis from other states aren’t permitted to go to the lakes. If you have you are self-driving, you can travel to Tso Moriri, but you will need an inner line permit.

Shared taxis are cheaper than private taxis. You can easily find a cab to take you to Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso or for your entire trip. It’s better to negotiate and compare prices before hiring a taxi.

If you are travelling on a budget, buses are a good option. But there are only three buses between Leh and Tso Moriri in a month. There is a bus from Leh to Karzok at 6:30 am on the 10th, 20th and 30th of each month. The same bus leaves Karzok the next day. The Karzok to Leh bus runs on the 11th, 21st and 31st or 1st of every month. A bus ticket costs Rs.370 one-way.

The buses are few and don’t fit into everyone’s itinerary. In this case, a taxi is the better option.

PERMITS FOR TSO MORIRI AND KYAGAR TSO

All visitors, whether travelling by bus, taxi or own vehicle, need an inner-line permit to visit Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso because they are near the Line of Actual Control. Also, only taxis, buses, bikes rented in Leh and private vehicles are allowed to visit the lakes. Cars from other states aren’t permitted to go to Tso Moriri.

*NOTE:- Indians and foreigners need an inner-line permit to visit Tso Moriri.

There are two ways to apply for a permit – online and manual. For the online application form, visit the government website and fill out form. Take a printout and submit it with all the required documents at the DC office in Leh. Or you can apply for a permit upon arriving in Leh. You can get the application form at the Tourist Centre or DC office in Leh. It takes one day to get it.

Those travelling from Pangong Lake to Tso Moriri should add this route to your application form. Only Indians are allowed to use this route. Foreigners aren’t permitted to travel along this road.

*NOTE:- Bring several printouts of the inner-line permit because you have to submit a copy at various checkpoints.

BEST TIME TO VISIT TSO MORIRI AND KYAGAR TSO

Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso are beautiful all year long. If you want to see a frozen lake and white wonderland, visit during the winter. To see the lake changing shades, travel during the summers.

JANUARY – MARCH

January to March are the harshest winter months. The temperature is below 0 degrees. The lakes are accessible, but they are frozen solid. Locals enjoy skating on the frozen surface. The frozen lake is a breathtaking sight. During this time, few homestays are open, and finding a place to stay is difficult. You can try your luck at Chumathang. Also, there are fewer tourists during this time.

*NOTE:-During the winter, the roads might get blocked due to heavy snow. So, check the road status before travelling.

APRIL – AUGUST

In April, the lakes start to melt. The temperature is cold but not like in the winter months. April is a great time to see the frozen lake without enduring the harsh winter climate. The camps and hotels are still closed, but you can find a few homestays.

Only a thin sheet of ice remains on the once frozen lakes by the end of May. The temperatures are much warmer. Most camps start reopening and preparing for the peak season. It is the peak season as loads of tourists come to Tso Moriri.

The lakes have melted by June. The temperature is warm. It reaches 15 degrees during the day and drops to 2-3 degrees at night. All the camos, small hotels and homestays have reopened. You can find accommodations in Karzok. June, July and August are the best months to visit Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso. The weather is splendid, and you can see the lakes changing colours. The temperature is 20 degrees max, and the minimum is 0-1 degrees. Depending on the sky, the lakes change from turquoise to crystal to a dark shade of blue or green. Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso receive little to no rainfall.

SEPTEMBER – DECEMBER

September is the best time to visit the lakes before the winter months. The lakes are a magnificent sight. Also, this is the low season, and there are few tourists. The camps and small hotels start closing and preparing for the harsh winters. By mid-October, all the tents have shut down. October to December there are hardly any tourists. People avoid travelling during this time because of the freezing temperature.

If cold weather is not your idea of fun, travel to Tso Moriri and Kyagar lake in the summer months, between June, July and August.

PLACES TO VISIT EN ROUTE TO TSO MORIRI AND KYAGAR TSO

In this section of the Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso guide, I’ve listed all the places worth visiting en route to the lakes. Whether you’re travelling from Pangong Lake, Leh or Tso Kar, there are various must-visit spots on these routes.

On the Pangong-Tso Moriri route, visit Rezang La War Memorial and Hanle village. While travelling from Leh, stop at the monasteries in Thikse and Hemis. And on the road from Tso Kar, marvel at the Tso Kar and Puga hot springs. And the Karzok Gompa in Karzok is another beautiful attraction.

REZANG LA WAR MEMORIAL

Rezang La is a mountain pass in the Chusul Valley. It is known as Rezang La in India and Rechin La in China. In 1962 there was a war at Rezang La between India and China. 114 Indian soldiers died while preventing the Chinese troops from entering Chusul Valley. The Rezang La War Memorial is a symbol and reminder of the brave soldiers who sacrifice their lives to protect us.

You can visit this war memorial en route to Pangong Tso from Tso Moriri or Hanle. It is 60 km from Spangmik and takes 2-3 hours. Very few people travel this route, so this is not a renowned sight. The Rezang La War Memorial is a two-building complex in the middle of nowhere. The land is barren for kilometres. Upon arriving, a soldier will guide you. There is an enormous wall engraved with the names of the fallen soldiers. Up next is the museum. The weapons, mugs, helmets and other items riddled with bullet holes are displayed. On the second floor is the model of the Rezang La topography. The soldiers will explain the layout and point out the peaks under India and those of China.

Another reason for visiting Rezang La War Memorial is that it is a few km from the China border. The soldier who was guiding us showed us the Chinese bunkers. You don’t even need binoculars to see it. It is so near.

TIMINGS AND TICKETS:- The Rezang La War Memorial is open all day from Monday to Sunday. And the entry is free.

HANLE

Hanle or Anle is a small village in the Hanle river Valley. It is home to the 17th-century monastery and the world’s highest observatory. Aside from this, it serves as the base for visiting Umling La, the highest motorable road in the world. It is not a very popular destination yet. But soon, it will be renowned. Many people visit Hanle on their way to Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso. Tourists need an inner-line permit for travelling to Hanle and Umling La.

If you plan to visit the village, refer to my Hanle and Umling La guide.

HEMIS GOMPA

The Hemis gompa is Ladakh’s wealthiest, massive and the seat of the Drukpa Kagyupa sect. Hemis monastery was established in 1672 AD by King Sengge Namgyal and re-established in the 11th century. It is a massive Tibetan-style gompa with a museum, prayer hall and more. Every year in June, the monks celebrate the Hemis festival here. It is a two-day festival, and the public can glimpse the thangkas (religious paintings). Also, a gigantic thangka is displayed every twelve years.

The Hemis Gompa is open every day from 8 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm. The lunchtime is 1-2 pm.

The Hemis Gompa is open every day from 8 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm. The lunchtime is 1-2 pm. You can stop here on the way to or while returning from Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso. The Hemis gompa is 40.8 km from Leh and takes 1 hour.

THIKSE MONASTERY

Sherab Zangpo founded the Thikse Gompa in 1433 in the Indus Valley. The founder of the Yellow hats, Je Tsongkhapa, sent six disciples to various areas in Tibet to preach and spread Buddhism. Sherab Zangpo was one of them. He met the King of Ladakh, who allowed him to establish a small monastery village. Later, Palden Zangpo, Sherab Zangpo’s disciple, built a bigger gompa on the banks of the Indus river. Therefore the Thikse Gompa is affiliated with the Gelug School of Buddhism. Je Tsongkhapa had predicted Buddhism would prosper on the right bank of the Indus river. The establishment of the Thikse Monastery proved it to be true.

The Thikse Gompa resembles the Potala Palace in Lhasa and is known as “Mini Potala”. It is a beautiful monastery on a hill. The main attraction is the 49 ft Maitreya Buddha in the lotus position.

TIMINGS:- The Gompa is open all week from 6 am to 1 pm and from 1:30 pm to 7 pm. The lunchtime is from 1 pm to 1:30 pm, and tea time is 4 pm to 4:15 pm.

TICKETS:- The entry ticket costs Rs. 50 per person. It includes visits to the Maitreya Buddha, Tara Temple, Gold and Silver stupa temple, main prayer hall, Mahakal temple and Mahakali temple.

TSO KAR

Tso Kar is a salt lake 100 km from Tso Moriri. Unlike Tso Moriri, it is smaller in size but just as beautiful. It is not a renowned lake, so there are fewer tourists. Out of all the lakes, Tso Kar is the least popular. Few tourists mean fewer accommodations. You can visit Tso Kar on the way to or while returning from Tso Moriri.

This lake is in the Rupshu Plateau and was a source of salt that was exported to Tibet by the Changpa Nomads. The lake lies surrounded by mountains and is called the white lake because of the white salt deposits on the shores.

PUGA HOT SPRINGS

Puga valley is a region in Ladakh known for its lumpy grassland and hot springs between Tso Kar and Tso Moriri. The hot springs are around 30 kms from Tso Kar, but there are no clear directions to the Puga hot springs. While driving, you will notice the lumpy grassland. Ask the locals if the hot springs are near.

The best time to visit Puga valley is June to September. That’s when the fields are mossy green. During other months, the grass is dry, and sometimes it appears white due to the mineral deposits.

KARZOK GOMPA

Karzok is the closest village to Tso Moriri. There are no accommodations near Kyagar Tso, so Karzok is the only option. The 300-year-old Karzok Gompa is the main attraction after Tso Moriri. Kunga Lodro Ningpo founded the monastery and is of the Drukpa lineage. Earlier it served as the headquarters of Rupshu Valley. The monastery houses the beautiful Shakyamuni Buddha statue and is a Buddhist pilgrim. Yearly, monks travel from afar to visit the Karzok Gompa.

The monastery overlooks the Tso Moriri and offers stunning views of the lake. The Moriri lake is sacred, and swimming or bathing in the lake is prohibited.

ACCOMMODATIONS

There are no homestays, hotels or camps near Kyagar Lake. You will have to keep driving to Karzok for a place to stay. There are many homestays and small-scale hotels here. Tso Moriri is a remote area, and accommodations are few and provide basic facilities. Don’t expect hot water, electricity and such luxuries.

All the accommodations are far from the lake because construction and camping near the lake are banned. Many homestays and hotels have lake view rooms. Every year new camps and hotels open, and some shut down. So there’s no sure way to know which one is functioning. Also, rooms get sold out quickly during peak season. Pre-book your stays before arriving and also confirm your booking several times.

If you don’t want to go through the hassle of finding rooms, you can always ask the travel agents to do it. Several travel agencies in Leh organise group and private tours to Tso Moriri.

ITINERARIES

I’ve mentioned three routes for travelling to Tso Moriri and Kyagar Lake. Refer to the itinerary which suits your road.

TSO KAR – TSO MORIRI

• Begin your journey to Tso Moriri. The lake is 100 km from Tso Kar and takes 2-3 hours. On the way, stop by the Puga hot springs. Marvel at the beauty of Kyagar Tso and Tso Moriri before heading to Karzok for the night.
• On the second day, enjoy the views of the Tso Moriri before heading to Manali, Leh, Pangong Tso or Hanle.

PANGONG LAKE – TSO MORIRI

• On the first day, drive to Tso Moriri from Pangong lake. It is 217km and takes 5-6 hours. Stop by Kyagar Tso before heading to Karzok for the night.
• Spend time at Tso Moriri in the morning and leave Karzok on the second day. You can head back to Leh or keep driving to Puga hot springs and Tso Kar.

LEH – TSO MORIRI

• On the first day, drive from Leh to Moriri lake. It takes 7-8 hours to reach Karzok. Enjoy the views of Kyagar Tso and Moriri Lake. Spend the night in Karzok.
• After a hearty breakfast, it’s time to leave Karzok. On the second day, you can either head back to Leh, drive to Pangong lake or Puga hot springs and Tso Kar.

HELPFUL TIPS

• Carry at least 20 litres of extra fuel when travelling because the nearest petrol pump is in Leh. The other pumps are in Diskit and Karu. You can find loose petrol for Rs.130 per litre and diesel for Rs.100 per litre in Durbuk, Nyoma, Spangmik, Merak and Hanle.
• Download offline maps or carry a map book because the mobile network is unavailable near the lake.
• Carry proper medication because there is no medical assistance nearby. And it takes hours to reach Leh.
• Bring plenty of cash because many camps and hotels don’t accept online or card payments. There are no ATMs nearby.
• Carry plenty of snacks and water. Restaurants and dhabas are far and few.
• Wear warm clothes because the temperature drops at night.
• Pre-book hotels and camps during peak season. Rooms get sold out in Karzok.
• Get acclimatised before travelling to Tso Moriri or higher altitudes because the nearest medical facility is Leh.

CONCLUSION

In my Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso guide, I’ve tried to cover all the essential topics and information for planning a hassle-free journey. If you think I’ve missed something, please let me know in the comments. I hope this article ignites your wanderlust.

Don’t be the person who is too busy when they are young and too tired when you’re old.

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