Asia, Himachal Pradesh, India, Road trip

TABO – HOME TO INDIA’S OLDEST BUDDHIST ENCLAVE

Tabo is a small town on the banks of the Spiti river. Unlike other villages in Spiti valley, Tabo is not a high-altitude town. It is just off the highway between Rekong Peo and Kaza.

I visited Tabo during a month-long road trip to Spiti valley, Leh and Kashmir.

This post on Tabo is an individual guide and is part of the Spiti valley series.

In this article, I’ve covered the following topics.

  • THE ROUTE
  • HOW TO REACH TABO?
  • BEST TIME TO VISIT
  • PLACES TO VISIT
  • DAY TRIPS FROM TABO
  • HOTELS AND HOMESTAY
  • WHERE TO EAT?
  • HELPFUL TIPS

THE ROUTE TO TABO

There are two ways to reach Tabo—via Manali and Shimla.

The Shimla route is open all year round. But the Manali-Kaza road, due to heavy snowfall, remains closed from November to May.

VIA MANALI

Chandigarh – Manali – Atal Tunnel/ Rohtang Pass (your choice) – Batal – Kunzum La – Losar – Kaza – Tabo

The driving distance between Chandigarh and Tabo is 307 km and takes 8-9 hours. The Manali-Kaza road is open from June to October.

VIA SHIMLA

Chandigarh – Shimla – Kufri – Narkanda – Rekong Peo – Nako – Tabo

The distance from Chandigarh to Tabo is 486 km and takes 14 hours.

The Shimla road is open 365 days. Sometimes in winter, the highway remains closed due to heavy snowfall.

HOW TO REACH TABO?

Tabo is a town in Spiti valley and is accessible only by road. You can arrive at the nearest airport and train station. From there, rent a taxi or take the bus to Tabo. But the best way to travel is self-driving.

AIR

Chandigarh airport is the nearest to Shimla. From the airport, rent a taxi or board a bus to Shimla.

Bhuntar airport in Kullu is the nearest to Manali. From here, take a taxi or bus to Manali. Manali is a tourist town, so taxis and buses to Tabo are available.

TRAIN

Chandigarh train or Kalka station are the nearest to Shimla. From Chandigarh, there are regular buses and taxis to Shimla. Or board the toy train to Shimla from Kalka station.

The Joginder Nagar station is the nearest to Manali. But there are no direct trains to Joginder Nagar from major Indian cities. The only way to reach Joginder Nagar station is from Pathankot station.

BUS

There are regular buses to Shimla and Manali from Chandigarh and Delhi.

From Shimla, there are no direct buses to Tabo. People often take the bus to Peo. Then the following day, they board the bus to Kaza and get off at Tabo.

*NOTE:- There are two buses from Rekong Peo to Kaza. One is at 7 am, and the other is at 9 am.

From Manali, there are no direct buses to Tabo. It takes two days to travel to Tabo by bus from Manali.

First, you have to take the Kaza-bound bus from Manali. From Kaza, there is an early morning bus to Peo at 7 am. Take this bus and get off at Tabo.

*NOTE:- From Manali, there are two buses to Kaza. One is at 5 am, and the other is at 5:30 am.

ROAD

From where you’re travelling will determine your route. The highways are different up to Chandigarh. Chandigarh onwards, the route is the same for everyone. There are two roads to Tabo— via Manali and Shimla.

I’ve mentioned both routes in the previous section.

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT TABO?

Tabo is reachable all year round via Shimla. From Manali, Tabo is accessible only for a few months.

The Manali-Kaza road remains closed to the public due to heavy snowfall from November to June. November to February are the winter months. However, you can travel to Tabo via Shimla. This road is open 365 days.

Spiti valley experiences snowfall during this time.

If you want to see a white Spiti valley, this is the time. But roads often get closed due to the snow. Also, the temperature remains below zero.

*NOTE:- The water in the pipes freezes. So, open toilets are the only choice.

March to June are the summer months. The weather is pleasant, and the snow has melted away. It is the peak season. March onwards, tourists start arriving. The Manali-Kaza road also opens by mid-June. Travel in June if you are planning to follow the Spiti circuit route. The Kunzum pass and Rohtang Pass open in June.

From July to August, Spiti valley experiences the monsoon season. In the hills, roads get flooded and make driving difficult. Vehicles get stuck in water crossings. Also, landslides are a frequent occurrence. So, roads are closed for days at a time.

From September to October, Spiti valley adorns its autumn colours. It is the best time to visit Spiti valley before the winters. The temperature is low. Also, few people travel during these months.

*NOTE:- The Manali-Kaza road is open for 5-6 months, from June to October and closes from November to May.

PLACES TO VISIT IN TABO

Tabo is a small town having few attractions, but it has an abundance of beauty.

You need at least half a day to explore the town and its sights.

The main attractions are—

  • Tabo monastery
  • Tabo caves

TABO MONASTERY

The Tabo monastery is one of the oldest working Buddhist monasteries and is over 1000 years old.

Tabo Gompa is known as the Ajanta of the Himalayas. The old monastery played an important role in establishing Buddhism in the area. It symbolises the ancient Buddhist traditions and preserves the Buddhism ethics of Tibet.

The old monastery has nine temples, stupas and cave shrines made of mud and clay.

The cave shrines have murals and wall paintings depicting the history of Buddhism in Tibet and India.

Old Tabo monastery.
The old Tabo monastery

The new monastery is known as the Kalachakra Temple. It symbolises Dalai Lama’s first Kalachakra ceremony.

Kalachakra temple in Tabo.
The Kalachakra Temple

The ceremony took place in Tabo in 1983 and inaugurated the Kalachakra Stupa in 2009.

Kalachakra Stupa in Tabo.
Stupa

The Tabo monastery is the holiest. Dalai Lama wishes to retire here. So, the Tabo Gompa is a must-visit.

TABO CAVES

There is a group of caves in the mountain near the village. There is no concrete info regarding their origin, but they are over 1000 years old.

The caves are called Tabo caves. In olden times, monks utilised the caves as an assembly hall. It served as a shelter for the monks against the cold Spiti winters. Even today, monks come to meditate in these caves. Several flags are hung outside the cave if any monks are meditating inside.

Some caves are well developed, and others are not. The cave entrances are narrow and lead to other smaller rooms. Also, there is a gap in the roof for ventilation and sunlight. Thus, the caves are warm in winters and cool in summers.

There are several caves in the mountain. The lower caves serve as toilets for the villagers. So visit the upper caves. The caves are visible from the village and Tabo monastery.

There is a small path that leads to the caves. It takes 10-15 minutes to hike to the top. From here, you can enjoy aerial views of the village.

Don’t miss out on this striking view.

DAY TRIPS FROM TABO

When travelling the Spiti circuit or only visiting Tabo, you can go to the following villages on a day trip. They are—

DHANKAR

Dhankar is a village 31 km from Tabo known for its 1000-year-old monastery and Dhankar Lake.

It is a high-altitude village sitting atop a lunar landscape overlooking the Spiti river.

Dhankar village is one hour drive from Tabo.
Dhankar village

You can refer to the Dhankar village guide when planning a trip.

GUE

Gue is a small village 34 km away. It is home to the Indian mummy.

Gue monastery in Gue village.
Gue Monastery

The mummy belongs to a Tibetan monk, Sangha Tenzin. He starved himself and self-mummified to protect the village from scorpions.

It is the sole self-mummification mummy in India. Its skin, teeth, hair and nails are well-preserved without artificial preservatives.

Refer to the Gue village guide for details.

PIN VALLEY

Pin valley is a wildlife sanctuary comprising 10-12 villages.

Mud, the last village of Pin Valley, is 65 km from Tabo and takes 2½ hours to reach. Mud is popular among visitors. In Mud, walk down to the Spiti river and the suspension bridge.

Pin valley is the shy cat’s home. Wild photographers visit Pin valley on week-long expeditions to catch a glimpse of the snow leopard.

A night’s stay in any village of Pin valley is preferred. But if you are short on time, visit Pin valley on a day trip. You have to get up early.

HOTELS AND HOMESTAYS IN TABO

Tabo is a small town with several accommodations.

ZOSTEL HOMES

Zostel Homes is on the outskirts of Tabo. It is away from the town but has scenic views of the river and mountains.

The hotel is chic and well-decorated. It has paintings, photography of the local landscape and prayer flags.

Unlike other zostels, this one has only private rooms. The rooms are clean and spacious. But there is a shared bathroom.

The staff is helpful and hospitable. The online reviews are full of compliments.

The only downside is that there is no parking area and it is a 20-minute walk to the town. It is the best budget-friendly stay in Tabo.

MONASTERY GUESTHOUSE

The guesthouse is known as the Millennium Monastery guesthouse. It is next to the old gompa.

Old Tabo monastery entrance
The old gompa entrance

It is a budget-friendly stay with simple and minimal rooms. There are rooms with or without attached bathrooms.

The guesthouse also has a restaurant offering various veg and non-veg dishes. The prices are reasonable, and the food is good.

HOTEL MAITREYA REGENCY

This hotel is near the Tabo entrance. It is in the market area and near the monastery.

It is a simple hotel with spacious and clean rooms having basic amenities. The bathrooms are big and well-kept.

The hotel has a restaurant serving local, Indian and Chinese cuisine. The food is good.

NORBU HOUSE

Norbu House is a few metres from the Maitreya hotel.

The rooms are moderate-sized and clean. The bathrooms are in good condition.

The hotel’s restaurant is all praise. They serve veg and non-veg Indian, Chinese and local cuisines.

The only downside is no parking. You have to park your vehicles on the roadside.

RESTAURANTS IN TABO

All hotels and homestays provide food. But if you want to dine out, there are a few restaurants in town.

HOTEL TIGER DEN

It is near the monastery entrance. It is a homestay plus restaurant. The lower section is the restaurant, and the upstairs is the hotel.

Tiger Den is popular among visitors and gets busy. So, avoid the lunch rush as the service is slow.

There is indoor and outdoor seating. The restaurant is small but serves good food. Here, you can find vegetarian and non-vegetarian Indian, Chinese, Italian and local cuisines.

Tabo monastery entrance
Tabo monastery entrance

CAFE HIMALAYA

Cafe Himalaya shouldn’t be confused with the well-known Himalayan Cafe in Kaza.

The cafe is next to the monastery entrance, opposite Tiger Den.

It is a small cafe with a limited menu. It is a good place for breakfast and snacks. Here you can get sandwiches, soups, vegetarian Chinese and Indian food items.

Cafe Himalaya is open from 6 am to 11 pm. If you are looking for a late-night snack in Tabo, this is the place.

MONASTERY GUESTHOUSE RESTAURANT

The monastery guesthouse restaurant is underrated. Most people don’t know where it is. So they miss out on good food.

The guesthouse is next to the Old Tabo Gompa. Here you can find vegetarian and non-vegetarian food. It is the best place in Tabo to try local food.

TIPS FOR A HASSLE-FREE VISIT TO TABO

  • The nearest petrol pump and the mechanic shop is in Kaza when coming via Manali and in Rekong Peo from Shimla.
  • BSNL and Jio postpaid have a spotty network in Tabo.
  • Follow the dress code when visiting the Tabo monastery. Sleeveless shirts and tops, shorts, and short dresses are inappropriate.
  • Electricity is available in Tabo. But there are frequent power cuts. So carry power banks to charge your electronic devices.
  • Carry cash because cards don’t work. Many hotels don’t have internet, so online payment is unavailable.
  • Download offline maps or carry map books. BSNL and Jio might work, but no guarantees. Therefore don’t rely solely on Google maps.
  • Pre-book hotels and homestays in Tabo. Visitors prefer staying here and visiting Dhankar and Gue on a day trip from here. So finding a room here is impossible during peak season.
  • Carry your medicines. Pharmacies are far and few. And most of them have limited supplies. The nearest hospital is in Shimla or Manali. So carry altitude sickness meds.

CONCLUSION

I was in Tabo on the fifth day of my trip. I left Nako in the morning, travelled to Gue, Dhankar and Tabo, and went to Pin valley for a night’s stay.

While planning, I didn’t account for the time it would take to visit each village. Therefore, when I arrived in Tabo, it was after 2 pm.

We visited the gompa before heading to lunch. It took longer than expected for lunch to arrive. It was past 3 pm, so we had to skip the Tabo caves. We still had to go to Dhankar and then drive to Pin valley.

Due to time constraints and poor planning, I couldn’t visit the caves. So when travelling to this town, have sufficient time to explore the village.

Spiti valley is a beautiful place, and no amount of time is sufficient to appreciate its beauty.

I hope this ignites your wanderlust because

Adventure is worthwhile.

aesop

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