Dhankar village is a high-altitude hamlet overlooking the confluence of the Spiti and Pin rivers. It is 3,894 m above sea level.

Dhankar was Spiti valley’s capital under the Nono kings’ rule.

The village is lunar-shaped. The monastery and fort sit on the soil columns.

The fort’s location was advantageous in defending it against intruders. The monks threw rocks and stones at the enemies, defeating them.

The word Dhankar comes from “Dhang”, meaning “Cliff”, and “Kar”, meaning “fort”. It is an apt name because Dhankar was once a fort on the cliff.

Dhankar village guide is a continuation of the “Spiti valley road trip guide“. Refer to the Spiti valley guide when planning a Spiti tour.

THE ROUTE TO DHANKAR VILLAGE

Dhankar is away from the highway. You have to drive uphill for 7.9 km to reach Dhankar village. There are two routes to reach Dhankar— via Shimla or Manali.

VIA SHIMLA

The Shimla route is open all year round. You can visit most villages of Spiti valley all year round.

Chandigarh – Shimla – Kufri – Narkanda – Rekong Peo – Nako – Tabo – Dhankar.

VIA MANALI

The Manali route is open only for five months. Due to heavy snowfall, the Manali-Kaza road closes from November to June. In June, Kunzum pass and Rohtang Pass cleared.

Chandigarh – Manali – Atal Tunnel / Rohtang Pass – Batal – Kunzum La (Pass) – Losar – Kaza – Dhankar.

Dhankar is reachable even in the winter months from Shimla.

HOW TO REACH DHANKAR VILLAGE?

Dhankar is a small village between Tabo and Kaza. It is a 1-hour drive from Tabo and Kaza.

AIR

Chandigarh and Bhuntar airports are the closest. Chandigarh airport has better connectivity than Bhuntar airport.

From the airport, hire a taxi, board a bus and rent a bike or car to take you to Dhankar.

If you are travelling via Shimla, Chandigarh airport is the best option. Whereas, Bhuntar airport is the better option for travelling via Manali.

TRAIN

Chandigarh and Kalka stations are the closest to Manali and Shimla.

From Kalka station, board the toy train to Shimla. Or you can take the bus or taxi to Shimla and Manali.

The Joginder Nagar station is closest to Manali. But there are no direct trains to this station. You have to take the train to Pathankot station, then change trains to reach Joginder Nagar.

Therefore it’s better to arrive at Chandigarh and then take a taxi to Manali.

BUS

There are regular buses to Shimla and Manali from Chandigarh and Delhi. But, there are no direct buses to Dhankar.

From Shimla, board the bus to Rekong Peo, then board the bus bound for Kaza. Get off at Tabo or Sichling. From Tabo, take a taxi to Dhankar. From Sichling, you can either walk or hitchhike to the village.

*NOTE:- There are two buses from Rekong Peo to Kaza. One is at 7 am, and the other is at 9 am.

Board the the bus to Kaza from Manali. There are regular buses to Rekong Peo via Tabo. Get off at Sichling village and walk or hitchhike to Dhankar from here.

*NOTE:- From Manali, there are two buses to Kaza. One is at 5 am, and the other is at 5:30 am.

ROAD

Several National Highways and expressways connect Indian cities. Arrive at Chandigarh from your respective destinations. Chandigarh onwards, the route is the same for all.

You can refer to the previous section for the route from Chandigarh.

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT DHANKAR VILLAGE?

Like most villages in Spiti valley, Dhankar is open all year round. If you want to complete the Spiti valley circuit, it is possible only from June to October.

Snow covers up Dhankar and other villages of Spiti valley from November to February. The temperature is below zero. It is freezing outside, so plan accordingly.

March to June are the peak months when Spiti valley sees the most visitors. The temperature differs. Sometimes it gets hot and sometimes chilly. Also, the roads and highways are open.

From July to August is the rainy season. The roads get flooded, and vehicles are stuck. Also, landslides are frequent.

September to October is the best time to visit Dhankar. During these months, you can experience another side of the village. The weather is chilly, so bring your warm clothes. The lucky ones might even witness the first snowfall.

PLACES TO VISIT IN DHANKAR VILLAGE

Dhankar is a small village with a population of not more than 100 people. There are three places to visit in Dhankar, and beauty in abundance.

The three places to visit are—

• Dhankar Monastery
• Dhankar Lake
• Dhankar Fort

Aside from this, there are other villages to visit around Dhankar. They are —

• Gue
• Tabo

DHANKAR MONASTERY

A complex of buildings on an ant hill-like spires overlooking the Spiti valley forms the Dhanakar monastery.

This 1000-year-old monastery is known as the Lha-O-pa Gompa, after the Lama. It is a renowned religious centre.

Due to old age, the structure was deemed dangerous and unstable. Therefore, the monks shifted to the new gompa in Sichling village. A few monks still stay in the old one.

The old Dhankar gompa is at the end of the road. Upon entering the gompa, walk up a flight of steps. There are a few chambers. Some chambers are accessible to visitors while others are not.

The central room houses the Vairocana, a cosmic Buddha statue. On the walls, you can see paintings of Buddha. There is an entry fee of Rs. 20 per person to enter this room.

From the monastery, you can see the Dhankar village as it overlooks the Spiti river.

DHANKAR LAKE

Dhankar Lake is a freshwater lake at 4,140 m. Like most lakes in Spiti valley, Dhankar lake is a sacred lake.

It is a must-visit attraction in Dhankar village. Many people give up on visiting the lake after learning it requires hiking.

The lake is almost 2 km from Dhankar and takes 1-2 hours to reach. Hiking is the only way to get to Dhankar Lake. One the way, you can see the confluence of the Spiti and Pin rivers.

The trail begins somewhere near the monastery guesthouse. The first section of the hike is a steep climb. After that, the path runs on flat ground.

There are no accommodations near the lake. I’ve read that you can camp near the lake. But according to locals, camping near Dhankar lake is banned. So ensure camping is allowed before pitching your tents.

*NOTE:- It is a sacred lake, so swimming or bathing in the lake is prohibited.

*TIP:- Visit the lake in the evening for beautiful sunset snaps.

DHANKAR FORT

The old Dhankar monastery was a combination of a monastery and fort.

The fort protected the people against invaders. The monks and villagers threw rocks at the enemies.

The fort was glorious at one time, but it is now in ruins.

There is a small path near the monastery to the fort. From here, enjoy widespread views of Dhankar village and Spiti valley. Also, witness the confluence of the Spiti and Pin rivers.

HOTELS AND HOMESTAYS IN DHANKAR VILLAGE

Dhankar village is a small place and has limited hotels and homestays. Visitors often visit Dhankar on a day trip from Tabo or Kaza. So, accommodations are available.

Most of the homestays are not available online. You can find more options upon reaching there.

HOTEL DHANKAR HEIGHTS

Hotel Dhankar Heights has positive reviews on Google. It is a popular choice when staying in Dhankar.

The hotel is between the new and old Dhankar gompas. It is a white building facing the valley.

The rooms are clean and spacious, with an ensuite. The best part is the stunning views of the Dhankar Gompa and the village.

Veg and non-veg food are available at the hotel. Their food comes highly recommended.

Contact:- 070184 93536 ( I found this number in Google)

DHANKAR MONASTERY HOTEL

Dhankar monastery hotel is the gompa’s official guesthouse. It is another popular choice.

The Dhankar monastery hotel is a yellow building away from the old monastery.

The rooms are clean and moderate-sized, with an ensuite. The hotel faces the valley, so all rooms have beautiful views of the village.

Food items like noodles, pizza, Thukpa, and momos are available here. Whether you stay here or not, try the food here. The monastery’s restaurant has received a lot of praise.

There is no contact info or website. So you will have to book a room upon arrival.

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT?

Dhankar is a small village, so don’t expect any fancy restaurants.

Dining in your hotels and homestays is the best choice. There are hardly any restaurants in Dhankar.

The restaurant at the Dhankar monastery hotel has delicious food. It has a broad menu compared to other accommodations. Also, the prices are reasonable.

In Dhankar, you can find veg and non-veg food. Most hotels serve Indian, Chinese and local cuisines. Thukpas, Maggie, coffee, tea, momos and bread omelette are available.

HELPFUL TIPS FOR A HASSLE-FREE VISIT TO DHANKAR VILLAGE

• Dhankar is a small village with limited stay options. So pre-book hotels and homestays during peak season.
• Set aside a day if you want to visit Dhankar lake. It takes 2-3 hours for the round trip. So plan your sightseeing accordingly.
• The nearest petrol pump is in Kaza. You can find mechanics in Kaza but none in Dhankar.
• Follow the dress code when visiting the monastery. Avoid sleeveless shirts, short dresses and shorts.
• BSNL postpaid works in Dhankar. Jio postpaid may have a network sometimes. But there are no guarantees.
• Cash is the way to go. The nearest ATM is in Kaza. Hotels and homestays rarely accept cards or online payment.
• Carry warm clothes. The weather is unpredictable. Sometimes it’s hot and sometimes cold.
• Download offline maps since internet connectivity is unreliable.
• Carry your medicines. Diabetic and blood pressure patients must carry their medication. Pharmacies and medical stores are few. They have limited supplies. You can find cough and cold tablets but nothing fancy. Also, bring altitude sickness meds.

CONCLUSION

If you’ve been following my blog, you know I recently went on a month-long trip to Spiti valley, Leh and Kashmir. You can read about the itinerary, route, tips and more in the Spiti, Leh and Kashmir guide.

We travelled from Nako to Pin valley on the fifth day. On the way, we stopped at Gue, Tabo and Dhankar. It was a mistake on our part. We should have stayed in Tabo or Dhankar, rather than going to Pin valley.

Due to this, we had little time in Dhankar. We reached Dhankar around 4 pm. We walked to the monastery and later enjoyed a cup of tea while gazing at the scene.

Due to our late arrival in Dhankar, we had to skip the hike to Dhankar Lake. I deeply regret not going to the lake. So please don’t repeat this same mistake. Take your time exploring and admiring each village.

In this Dhankar village guide, I’ve covered the following topics—

• The route via Shimla and Manali.
• How to reach Dhankar?
• The best time to visit
• Places to see in the village.
• Helpful tips
• Hotels and homestays
• What and where to eat?

If I’ve missed anything, please let me know in the comments.

I hope this ignites your wanderlust because

Travel is an investment in yourself.

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