This article is a Nako guide. It mostly centres around travelling to Nako as a solo destination by road. If you’re planning a Spiti valley road trip, refer to my “Spiti valley guide”.

In this Nako guide, I’ll also cover the following topics.

• An overview of Nako
• The route or map to Nako
• Conditions of roads to Nako
• How to travel to Nako?
• When is the best time to visit Nako?
• Places to visit on the way to Nako.
• Places to visit in Nako
• Places to visit from Nako
• What to eat in Nako?
• A short itinerary for Nako
• List of hotels and homestays in Nako.
• Helpful tips to remember when travelling to Nako.

ABOUT NAKO VILLAGE

There is a common belief that Nako is a village in Spiti valley. Which it is not. It is, in fact, in the Hangrang valley in the Kinnaur district. Most people travel to Nako village as a part of the Spiti circuit. Therefore they think it is in Spiti valley.

Nako is a hamlet on the slopes of the Reo Purgyal, the highest mountain in Himachal. Earlier the village was on the banks of the Nako river. But due to the tectonic shifts, the settlement moved near Nako lake.

Nako is an agricultural village known for its apples and dried apricots.

THE ROUTE TO NAKO

Many visitors travel to Nako as a part of the Spiti valley circuit route. However, you can visit it as a solo destination as well.

Since I travelled to Nako from Shimla, I have mapped out the route with Shimla as the starting point.

Shimla – Kufri – Narkanda – Rampur Bushahr – Sarahan – Tapri – Karcham – Rekong Peo – Ribba – Pooh – Khaab – Nako.

It takes 9 hours to drive 310 km to Nako from Shimla.

CONDITIONS OF ROADS TO NAKO

The roads leading out of Shimla are single-lane roads and often packed. The highway up to Narkanda is often busy after 8 am. But the road conditions are tar and in good condition. Then up to Rekong Peo, there is less traffic. Rekong Peo onwards, there are tar roads and little to no traffic. It is a single-lane highway till Nako.

To reach Nako, you have to take the diversion from NH 5. There are two roads to Nako. One path arrives at the Nako monastery, and the other is the main village entrance.

Follow the second road as shown on the map. The village’s main entrance is a few metres from the Kangdi dhaba.

You will find a small board pointing towards Nako. Follow that sign. It leads to a small dirt road, sufficient for one vehicle. From here, the village is less than 1000 m.

The roads to Nako are good but winding. Therefore it takes 8-9 hours to reach Nako from Shimla.

HOW TO TRAVEL TO NAKO?

AIR:- Whenever travelling to Spiti valley, Chandigarh airport is the best option. The airport has regular flights from various Indian cities. Hire a taxi or rent a car from here. Taxis charge Rs. 3000 – 3500 per day.

TRAIN:- Shimla station is the nearest train station to Nako. You can take the train to Chandigarh or Kalka station. From Kalka, board the toy train to Shimla. Taxis and buses to Nako are available here.

BUS:- It takes two-three days to reach Nako by bus. First, you have to board the Shimla-Rekong Peo bus. It arrives in Rekong Peo in the evening. The next day, take the bus to Nako.

ROAD:- Whether you’re travelling from Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai or Bangalore, Chandigarh is the common point for everyone. From Chandigarh onwards, the route is the same for all.

BEST TIME TO VISIT NAKO

Nako is accessible by road all year round.

March to June is summertime. The weather is pleasant despite the slight chill. It is an ideal time to visit Nako. But it is the peak season. Also, Nako lake has little water. The lake fills up during the monsoon months.

July to August are the monsoon months. It is low season. But the road to Nako experiences landslides. Therefore travel during this time should be avoided.

September to November are the autumn months. September sees little or no rainfall. October is the best time to visit Nakow when the leaves are in autumn shades. November is the onset of winter. The temperature drops, and you might experience snowfall.

December to February are the coldest months. Snow covers the entire village. Even the Nako lake freezes and locals enjoy ice skating on the lake.

The temperature drops up to -20° resulting in frozen pipelines. During this time, open toilets are the only option. If that’s not ok with you, travel to Spiti in another season.

*TIP:- Nako is at a high altitude and is windy. No matter the season, always wear warm clothes.

LIST OF PLACES TO VISIT EN ROUTE TO NAKO

In this section of the Nako guide, I’ve listed places or villages to visit en route to Nako. You can travel to them while going to Nako or on the return journey. They are —

• Rekong Peo and Kalpa
• Chitkul
• Khab Sangam bridge
• Ka Loops or Kazigs
• Namgia village and Shipki La

REKONG PEO AND KALPA

The Chandi Mata temple in Kothi is the primary attraction. Peo is the base of the 3-day trek to an 80 feet Shivalinga.

Peo and Kalpa have many apple and apricot orchards. From September to mid-October is the apple season. You can walk around the plantation and also pick some fruits.

The other attractions are the suicide point, the Durga Mata temple and Bhabha valley.

If time permits, hike to the Chakha valley for views of the Kinnaur Kailash range.

KHAB SANGAM

The confluence of the Spiti and Sutlej rivers is at Khab Sangam. It is known as the Khab Sangam because of the nearby Khaab village.

Khab village is 7.7 km from the Khab Sangam bridge. Before the bridge, the highway splits. One road leads to Nako and the other to Khab. Keep driving towards the former. There is a bridge where you can witness the confluence of the Spiti and Sutlej rivers.

Khab also marks the starting point of NH 505, which connects Kinnaur to the Spiti valley.

KA LOOPS OR KAZIGS

Ka loops are a series of hairpin bends between Nako and Khab. It is an adventurous drive but worth it. As you climb higher, the view keeps getting better.

They are called the Ka loops because of the nearby Ka village. After crossing the Khab Sangam bridge, drive for a while to reach the Ka loops.

NAMGIA VILLAGE AND SHIPKI LA (PASS)

Namgia is the last Indian village from the Indo-Tibetan border. It is the last hamlet before the Shipki La (Pass).

Shipki La (Pass) is a Pass and a border post between Tibet and India. Earlier it was a trade route. Today, small-scale trading takes place between the locals. However, outsiders like you and me are not allowed at Shipki La.

CHITKUL

Chitkul is the last Indian village from the Indo-Tibetan border. You can travel to Chitkul en route to Nako or while returning.

The hamlet’s main attractions are the Hindustan ka Akhri dhaba, the Baspa river and the Mathi temple. The neighbouring villages are worth exploring.

For a detailed account, read “An elaborate Chitkul travel guide”.

PLACES TO VISIT IN NAKO

The earlier section deals with places en route to Nako. And this segment of the Nako guide deals with sights in Nako village. They are —

• Nako monastery
• Nako Lake
• Nako village viewpoint

Nako village is small and has little to offer in terms of sightseeing. But that doesn’t mean it is less beautiful than other Spitian hamlets. It is just as stunning.

NAKO MONASTERY

Nako Gompa is an 11th-century monastery founded by Lochen Rinchen Zangpo. The gompa’s other name is “Lotsava Jhakang“, meaning “Temple of the translator“. Lochen Rinchen Zangpo was an ancient translator. Therefore, the name is apt.

The Nako Gompa is similar to the Tabo monastery and has four halls. The interior houses wooden and clay statues. Also, there are wall paintings in the gompa.

The monastery’s entry gate is a must-see. It has intricate designs and details carved into it. Books of Lord Buddha’s teachings are present at the gompa.

The small white temple has paintings that depict Lord Buddha’s life.

The Nako monastery is simple-looking. But it offers striking views of the surrounding mountain ranges.

NAKO LAKE

Nako Lake is sacred because it has where Saint Padmasambhava’s footprint near it. It is known as the realm of fairies. It is also known as Sacred Lake.

The Nako Lake is disappointing. It is a small lake in the centre of the village. The best time to visit Nako Lake is from October onwards. Trees surrounding the lake turn into shades of red, orange and yellow. And in winters, the lake freezes. Both these times, the lake looks magnificent.

I visited Nako in May. A lot of photos show the lake as full of water. But during my visit, the lake was half dried up. So don’t have too many expectations when visiting Nako Lake.

NAKO VILLAGE VIEWPOINT

There is no exact location of the Nako village viewpoint. Just ask the locals where you can see the bird-eye view of the village. They will point you in that direction. You will have to hike for a while, but it is worth it.

From the Nako village viewpoint, you can see the entire settlement. Also, it is a great place to witness the sunset.

PLACES TO VISIT FROM NAKO

It is the last segment in the Nako guide regarding sightseeing. I have listed places to visit en route to and in Nako village. Below are the places you can travel to from Nako. They are —

• Chango monastery
• Tabo
• Gue
• Dhankar

CHANGO MONASTERY

Chango is a village 27 km from Nako. You can visit Chango en route to Kaza from Nako. As every Spitian hamlet, Chango has its charm.

Chango monastery is known for its 500-year-old prayer wheel made of yak skin. This prayer wheel is 3.5 metres in diameter.

You have to drive for 23 km towards Kaza. After that, there is a diversion that leads to Chango. From here, Chango village is 4 km away.

GUE

Gue is a hamlet in Spiti valley renowned for its 500-year-old mummy. The Gue mummy belongs to a monk, Sangha Tenzin. The fact that there is a mummy on display makes it worth visiting. But the interesting fact is that it is an example of self-mummification.

Locals believe Sangha Tenzin willed his body to die. Therefore the mummy still retains its skin and bones. It is unlike the Egyptian mummies that were embalmed and wrapped in white bandages.

The mummy is outside the Gue monastery in a small room. During my visit, the gompa was closed due to construction work.

Gue village is 47 km from Nako and takes 2 hours to reach. The road from Nako up to the ITBP Mata mandir is tar. But from here, the road to Gue is a dirt road. The roadway is narrow and has several blind turns.

TABO

Tabo is a slightly more developed village than Nako. After travelling to Gue and Dhankar, many people prefer staying in Tabo.

Tabo has a few attractions, such as the Tabo monastery—both old and new, Tabo meditation caves, the Gompa museum and the monastery library.

Many people visit only the gompas, both new and old. If you have time, hike up to the Tabo caves for expansive views of the village.

Outside the monastery, you can find small stalls selling souvenirs.

Unlike most Spitian villages, Tabo is not a remote hamlet. You can see a board on the highway pointing to the village’s entrance arch. You don’t have to travel far from the road to reach Tabo.

DHANKAR VILLAGE

Dhankar was the former capital of the Spiti kingdom. It is a small village high up in the mountains at an altitude of 3894 metres.

To reach Dhankar village, you have to exit the highway. From here, climb for 8.5 km to reach the Dhankar gompa.

The Dhankar Monastery and Dhankar Lake are the hamlet’s two main attractions. You can drive up to the gompa. But the lake is a 2-3 hours hike from the village.

If you want to visit the lake, keep aside sufficient time.

LIST OF HOTELS AND HOMESTAYS IN NAKO

This section of the Nako guide deals with accommodations. Nako is a small village. So don’t expect five-star hotels.

Homestays and small motels are the primary accommodations. They have a maximum of 5-6 rooms only. So book your stays in advance during peak season.

HOTEL REO PURGUIL

I stayed at Hotel REO Purguil during my stay in Nako. It is at the beginning of the village, on the main road.

The rooms are spacious and simply decorated. And the bathrooms are big and clean. Each room has wooden flooring, so it is well-insulated. There are thick blankets in every room. Also, the balconies offer stunning views of the village and nearby fields.

The hotel has a parking area adequate for 3-4 vehicles. And it is within walking distance of Nako Lake.

The hotel is not available on MMT or other sites. You can reach them at – 9459494111.

RIPKA HOMESTAY

It is a homestay near the Nako monastery. Ripka homestay is deep inside the village.

The rooms are spacious with small but clean ensuites. Since it is a homestay, it is much simpler than a hotel. Ripka homestay has positive reviews on Google. Nako Lake is a 2-minute walk from here.

The homestay has a parking space for 3-4 cars. Also, they provide heaters at extra costs.

Contact info – 7018357589.

LAKE VIEW HOTEL AND RESTAURANT

It is a popular choice among visitors. The Lake View Hotel has the most reviews on Google.

The hotel is near the lake and therefore a popular choice. The rooms are spacious and minimalistic. Also, their restaurant comes highly recommended.

The road to the Lake view hotel is narrow but accessible by car. They have parking spaces for 7-8 vehicles.

WHAT TO EAT IN NAKO?

Nako is a small town with limited restaurants. It’s best to dine at your respective hotels.

As is customary in all Spitian villages, hotels and homestays serve rotis, one sabzi usually mixed veg, rice and dal. Breakfast includes tea, coffee, aloo parathas, eggs and bread. With prior notice, you might also get momos, Maggie or Thukpa.

*NOTE:- Inform the staff beforehand if you want something else.

NAKO ITINERARY

Whether travelling by train, plane or road, Chandigarh is a common point for all. Therefore I have considered Chandigarh as my starting point.

• Arrive in Chandigarh by train, plane or road. Spend the first day driving from Chandigarh to Shimla.
• On the second day, drive to Rekong Peo or Kalpa. Spend the rest of the day exploring Peo and Kalpa.
• Drive for 100 km to reach Nako on the third day. The driving time is only 2½ hours. You can spend the day exploring Nako.
• On the fourth day, drive to Chango to see the 500-year-old prayer wheel. After visiting the gompa, continue towards Gue. Return to Nako for the night. Or you can stay in Gue.
• Spend the fifth day driving back to Shimla.
• Return to Chandigarh on the sixth day.

*NOTE:- You can extend the number of days in Nako at your convenience. After exploring the village, you can continue towards Kaza or head back to Shimla.

TIPS TO REMEMBER WHEN TRAVELLING TO NAKO

• Book hotels in advance during peak season. During the winter months, call before arriving. Many homestays and hotels close from November to March.
• Carry warm clothes no matter the season.
• Carry cash because cards don’t work. Many hotels don’t have internet, so online payment is unavailable.
• Don’t expect hot water. Many hotels and homestays don’t have geysers.
• Download offline maps or carry map books. BSNL and Jio might work, but no guarantees. Therefore don’t rely solely on Google maps.
• Rekong Peo and Powari have petrol pumps. They are the closest petrol pumps to Nako. The one in Powari may or may not be functional. So carry supplies. The next gas station is in Kaza. So fuel up before travelling to Nako.
• Electricity is available in Nako. But there are frequent power cuts. So carry power banks to charge your electronic devices.
• If you are self-driving, ensure your homestay or motel has a parking area. Some hotels are accessible only on foot.

CONCLUSION OF MY NAKO GUIDE

I’ve tried to cover all the relevant topics in this Nako guide. But if you think I’ve missed something, please let me know in the comments below.

I’ll conclude my Nako guide by saying that visiting Nako is a must. The hamlet has little sightseeing, but it is still beautiful. Don’t miss out on this quaint village.

I hope this post ignites your wanderlust because

Going to the mountains is like going home.

john Muir