If you’ve been following my blog, you know I recently went on a month-long road trip. Those who don’t know, you can refer to my Spiti valley, Leh and Kashmir guide for details. I’ve finished posting articles on Spiti valley. So, it’s time for the Ladakh leg of the trip. Ladakh travel guide is the first article in the Ladakh series.

In this Ladakh travel guide, I’ve covered the following topics.

• THE ROAD TRIP ROUTE TO LADAKH
• HOW TO GET THERE?
• INNER-LINE PERMIT
• BEST TIME TO VISIT
• PLACES TO VISIT
• ITINERARY
• HELPFUL TIPS

It was my second time in Ladakh. I travelled here back in 2014. My 2014 Ladakh road trip was the highlight of my teen years. For years, my wish was to recreate the memories of this trip. I finally returned to Ladakh in 2022. My second visit was bitter-sweet.

It was sad and bitter because Ladakh had changed drastically over the years. 2022 Ladakh was different from the one in my memories. At the same time, it was sweet. I dreamt of coming back with my family and cousins, and I finally did. We made lots of new and happy memories.

LADAKH ROAD TRIP ROUTE

This section of the Ladakh travel guide deals with travelling to Ladakh by road. If you are travelling to Ladakh via plane, bus or train, refer to the next topic.

I went on a road trip to Ladakh twice. Once via Srinagar and again via Manali. These are the two routes to Ladakh. Many road trippers and bikers prefer beginning the journey in Manali and ending it in Srinagar. Both roads are scenic and adventurous and a must-visit. If you want to travel both routes, start from Srinagar and end in Manali or vice versa.

Srinagar – Sonmarg – Dras – Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh – Khardung La – Hunder – Turtuk – Diskit – Pangong Tso – Hanle – Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Pang – Zing Zing Bar – Jispa – Keylong – Sissu – Atal Tunnel/Rohtang Pass – Manali

SRINAGAR TO SRINAGAR

The road distance between Srinagar and Leh city is 417.9 km and takes 11-12 hours. In 2014, the Zojila Pass was narrow, fit for only one vehicle at a time. It took 7-8 hours, sometimes more, to cross the Zojila Pass. But that’s not the case anymore. Road expansion and tunnel construction are in the works. It will help reduce the time and distance between the two cities.

From Srinagar, follow the NH 1 to Leh. This road is open from April to October. During winter, Zoji La and Sonmarg area receive heavy snowfall. Also, the road from Srinagar to Sonmarg gets buried under snow. Zoji La starts getting snow in mid-October and continues till January or February. BRO (Border Road Organisation) starts clearing roads in mid-February. The highway opens after the 15th of April. Ensure the roads are open before planning a trip to Ladakh.

Srinagar – Sonmarg – Dras – Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh – Khardung La – Hunder – Turtuk – Diskit – Pangong Tso – Hanle – Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Pang – Meroo – Upshi – Leh – Kargil – Srinagar

MANALI TO MANALI

The distance between Manali and Leh is 427 km and takes 11-12 hours. Before the opening of the Atal Tunnel, Rohtang Pass was the only road to Ladakh. The pass closed during winters and opened in June. Whether you travel via Rohtang La or Atal Tunnel, plan your trip after May and before October. The Manali-Leh highway and NH3 get heavy snowfall during winter.

The Rohtang Pass closes in October and reopens in June. Whereas the Atal Tunnel is open. But the road beyond Sissu gets buried under snow. This road clears before and then Rohtang La. Ensure the roads are open before planning your trip.

Manali – Atal Tunnel / Rohtang Pass – Sissu – Keylong – Jispa – Zing Zing Bar – Pang – Meroo – Upshi – Leh – Khardung La – Hunder – Turtuk – Diskit – Pangong Tso – Hanle – Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Pang – Zing Zing Bar – Jispa – Keylong – Sissu – Atal Tunnel/Rohtang Pass – Manali

HOW TO TRAVEL TO LADAKH BY PLANE, TRAIN OR BUS?

AIR

Leh Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport, 5 km from the city centre, receives several flights from many Indian cities. There are direct flights to Leh from Delhi, Mumbai and Srinagar. Outside the airport, you can rent a taxi or board the bus.

TRAIN

The Jammu Tawi station is the closest train station, 686.6 km from Leh. Jammu Tawi station is well-connected to numerous Indian cities by rail. This option is best if travelling to Leh via Srinagar. From here, hire a taxi or take the bus to Leh. The Chandigarh train station is 306.4 km from Manali and 732.5 km from Leh. There are taxis and daily buses to Manali and Leh from Chandigarh.

BUS

There are no direct buses to Leh. If you are travelling from Jammu, take the 7 am bus to Srinagar. There is a daily bus to Leh from Srinagar. It takes two days to reach Leh with an overnight stay at Kargil. The bus leaves at 8 am from TRC near Dal Lake. The next day, the bus leaves Kargil at 7 am and reaches Leh in the evening. There are JKSRTC and private buses to Leh from Srinagar. JKSRTC buses are cheaper than private ones.

*NOTE:– Tickets for the JKSRTC buses should be booked at the bus stand one day before travelling.

From Manali, there are two buses to Leh. One is a direct bus, and the other takes two days to reach Leh. The HRTC bus leaves Manali at 4 am and reaches Leh at 8:30-9 pm. This bus leaves Manali daily from the HRTC bus stand. The HPTDC bus leaves Manali at 10-11 am and stops at Keylong for the night. The next day, the bus leaves Keylong at 4-5 am and reaches the JKSRTC bus stand in Leh at 7 pm.

INNER-LINE PERMIT

All Indians, except residents and children below 12 years old, require an inner-line permit to visit Ladakh. Inner-line permission is for Indians only, and a Protected Areas Permit for foreigners.

The inner-line permit is for visiting Pangong, Nubra Valley, Hanle, Turtuk, Tso Moriri. You don’t need an inner-line certificate to visit Leh city. But travelling anywhere outside Leh requires one. There are three ways to get an Inner-line permit- online, offline or through the hotel or a travel agent.

You can apply for an inner-line permit online at their government website. Fill in the details of the online form and pay online. Or you can make the payment in person at the DC office in Leh. After filling up the online application and successful payment, the permit gets issued. Take a few printouts. Now visit the DC office in Leh for document verification and get a stamp.

Another way is to apply in person. You can visit the DC office in Leh or the Tourist Information Centre for an application form. Fill in the details of the individual or group members and attach photocopies of IDs. Also, write an application letter addressing the DC of Leh-Ladakh. Make the payment and submit the form and letter to the clerk. You will have to wait for a few hours to get your permit.

There is another way if you don’t want to waste time waiting in a queue. Many hotels in Leh offer to apply for a permit in your place. You can ask the hotel management to submit your form and documents before arrival or after you reach Leh. They charge a small fee for these services.

You can refer to the Inner-line permit guide for a detailed explanation regarding applying for and issuing a permit.

BEST TIME TO VISIT LADAKH

A Ladakh road trip is possible from April to mid-October because the Srinagar-Leh and Manali-Leh highways are closed from mid-October to March due to heavy snowfall and open in June. You can still travel to Ladakh in winter by air.

SUMMER

In April, the BRO unblocks the Srinagar highway. So plan your trip after the announcement of the road opening. By May, the Srinagar-Leh highway is open. During this time, drive through the snow walls at Rohtang Pass. June is the peak season. The temperature reaches 30 degrees during the day and drops to 10 degrees or more at night. When travelling to Ladakh via Manali, start early because that’s when the water crossings are thin. As the temperature rises, the snow melts and the roads get flooded. Often, vehicles get stuck in water crossings.

If you want to complete the Srinagar-Leh-Manali circuit or vice versa, June is the best time to visit. By the first week of June, all the highways and passes have opened. During this time, drive through the snow walls at Rohtang Pass. It is the peak season as many bikers and road trippers travel to Ladakh in June. The temperature reaches 30°C during the day and drops to 10°C or more at night. When travelling to Ladakh via Manali, start early because that’s when the water crossings are thin. As the temperature rises, the snow melts and the roads get flooded. Often, vehicles get stuck in water crossings.

MONSOON

July and August are the monsoon months. Ladakh receives little rain, but Manali-Leh and Zoji La receive heavy rainfall, resulting in sudden landslides and flash floods. Also, there are numerous dangerous water crossings on the Manali-Leh highway. While travelling during the monsoons, keep buffer days because sometimes the roads get blocked for a few days. Also, the road conditions are bad, especially at Rohtang Pass and Zoji La. So, those travelling in sedans and hatchbacks should avoid July and August.

WINTER

September is the onset of autumn and the best time to visit Ladakh because there are fewer tourists. The temperature is low during the day and falls even lower at night. By mid-October, many camps along Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri have closed for the winter. Also, the roads to Ladakh start receiving snowfall. Taking a road trip to Ladakh in October is dangerous and unadvisable because the highways can close anytime.

November, December, January and February are the winter months of Ladakh. During these months, the roads to Pangong Tso, Nubra Valley and Tso Moriri are closed due to heavy snowfall. Also, the temperature is low during the day and falls to -10°C at night. The Chadar trek across the frozen Zanskar river from Padum to Leh is a popular activity during the winters. In January, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri start freezing. They remain frozen until April.

Therefore the best time to visit Ladakh is June and September. If you want to see snow, then November and December are the winter months.

MUST-VISIT PLACES IN LADAKH

Once upon a time, Leh city, Pangong Tso and Nubra valley were the only places of interest. But now, with every passing year, new highlights are making their mark on Ladakh’s sightseeing map. To thoroughly explore Ladakh, you need at least 15 days. This section of the Ladakh travel guide contains brief info about each spot. I will be posting links to detailed guides of each destination. I’ve compiled a list of must-visit places in Ladakh.

• LEH
• NURA VALLEY
• PUGA VALLEY
• PANGONG TSO
• TSO MORIRI AND KYAGAR TSO
• HANLE AND UMLING LA
• TSO KAR

LEH

A visit to Leh is unavoidable whether you’re travelling by air, train or road. The airport is a few km from the city, and the DC of Leh issues the inner-line permits. Leh is a big city with many tourist attractions in and around town. It would take at least 3-4 days to explore Leh alone. The must-visit places in Leh city are – Rancho’s school, Shey Palace, Leh Palace, Hall of fame, Tsemo Castle and the Shanti Stupa. Also, the Leh market is a great place to spend the evening. You can shop for souvenirs, woollens, dress materials and more. If shopping is not for you, sample foods at the cute cafes and eateries spread across the market. The Leh market comes alive at night. Also, if you’re lucky, you can see some kids performing on the streets.

There are several beautiful monasteries and towns around Leh, such as Hemis monastery, Lamayuru, Alchi monastery, Thiksey monastery, etc. You can visit them on a day trip from Leh.

For more details, you can read my Leh travel guide.

NUBRA VALLEY

Diskit, Panamik, Hunder, Turtuk, Sumur, and other towns collectively form the Nubra Valley. Each area has something to offer. Visit the dunes at Hunder. Marvel at the enormous Buddha statue in Diskit. Travel to Turtuk, India’s last village accessible to the public along the Indo-Pak border. Enjoy the slow life at Sumur. Relax in the hot springs at Panamik. Aside from this, visit the mighty Khardung La on the way to Nubra Valley. Nubra Valley is widespread, and you need at least three days to visit these towns.

If you want to know more about each town, read my travel guides to Hunder, Diskit, Panamik, and Turtuk.

PUGA VALLEY

Puga valley is the latest hotspot in Ladakh. Many people came across this on Instagram.

The Puga valley became famous for its natural hot springs and the green and bumpy landscape. The valley has a high concentration of sulphur, borax and other minerals beneficial for skin ailments. So, many tourists like taking a bath in the hot springs to cure skin problems. Also, the green grass grows in lumps making the landscape appear so. This grass is green only for a few months. Sometimes it turns white due to the excessive sulphur and other minerals.

The sight lies on the road between Tso Kar and Moriri lake. You can park your vehicles and walk down to the hot springs. This lumpy grass landscape is also present on the way to Pangong from Hanle. But the hot springs are available only in Puga valley.

PANGONG TSO

I cannot imagine coming to Ladakh and not visiting Pangong Tso. It is a crime if you don’t. Pangong Lake put Ladakh on the tourist map. Camping on the banks of this azure-coloured lake was and still is a dream for many.

When I visited Pangong in 2014, there were only a handful of tourists. But in 2022, the entire place was crowded with tourists. The movie “3 Idiots” cast an enormous spotlight on Pangong Lake. Since then, the number of tourists has increased tenfold. Earlier, there were no camps near Pangong Tso. Now there are camps from Dubruk to Merak. Despite the huge crowds of tourists, Pangong is breathtaking. There are no accurate words to describe its beauty.

TSO MORIRI AND KYAGAR TSO

Moriri Tso is gradually becoming popular. It is still untouched by tourists, unlike the Pangong.

It is also called the mountain lake and is the biggest of all the high-altitude lakes in Ladakh. Many travellers visit Moriri Lake over two days from Leh and stay the night in Karzok. The lake is 240-300 km from Leh and takes a long time to reach because there is no proper road to the lake. It is a barren landscape from Kyagar Lake. Just keep following the tyre tracks till you reach the lake.

On the way to Moriri lake, stop by Kyagar Tso. It is not as big, but it is just as beautiful. Very few tourists stop at this lake. So if you’re searching for a scenic spot, Kyagar Tso is the place.

Planning a day trip to Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso? Refer to my Tso Moriri and Kyagar Tso travel guide.

HANLE AND UMLING LA

Hanle or Anle is a small village in the Hanle river valley and home to the world’s second highest observatory, whereas Umling La is the world’s highest motorable road. They are the latest additions to Ladakh’s tourist map.

Aside from the monastery and the observatory, there is nothing to do in Hanle. Just sit back and enjoy the quiet. Hanle serves as a base for people visiting Umling La. People stay in Hanle, visit Umling La on a day trip and return for the night. Also, to visit Umling La, the world’s highest motorable road, you need a guide. There are no proper directions to the top.

Getting an inner-line permit to Hanle is impossible and many times denied. However, if you do get the chance to visit both Hanle and Umling La, don’t miss it. It is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. I was so fortunate to have travelled to both.

Planning a trip to Hanle and Umling La? Refer to my Hanle an Umling La travel guides.

TSO KAR

Tso Kar is another beautiful lake in Ladakh. But it is dwarfed by Pangong and Tso Moriri’s popularity. If you are searching for an untouched place in Ladakh, it’s Tso Kar. Unlike, Pangon or Moriri lakes, Tso Kar rarely sees tourists.

Visitors often visit Tso Kar on their way to Tso Moriri. Tso Kar is known as the white lake because of the salt deposits on the shore. Also, it has an abundance of flora and fauna. You can spot birds like Brahmi Ducks, the black-necked cranes, Ibex and more.

Are you planning a trip to Tso Kar? Refer to my Tso Kar travel guide.

ITINERARIES FOR LADAKH

I’ve assumed Leh as my starting point because you need an inner-line permit to travel, which is available only in Leh. If you are travelling from Srinagar to Leh to Manali, Srinagar to Srinagar or Manali to Manali, refer to the road trip route section.

• Upon arrival in Leh, apply for an inner-line permit. While waiting for it, spend the first day exploring the city. Visit the Leh palace and shop for souvenirs
• On the second day, visit the Shey Palace, Rancho’s school, Tsemo castle and Thiksey monastery.
• Drive to Nubra valley on the third day. On the way, stop at Khardung La. In the evening, visit the Diskit gompa, Maitreya Buddha statue and the Hunder dunes.
• Drive to Turtuk and spend the fourth day exploring the town.
• On the fifth day, drive to Panamik. If you have permission, you can try visiting the Siachen base camp.
• On the sixth day, drive to Pangong. There are several camps near the lake. Pre-book a stay as it gets crowded. Visit the lake, and take pictures with props from the movie “3 idiots”.
• Drive to Hanle on the seventh day. Leave early because the road is small and takes 5-6 hours to reach Hanle. Visit the observatory and Hanle Gompa in the evening.
• If you have a permit, visit Umling La, the world’s highest motorable road. Spend the eighth day travelling to and from Umling La.
• On the ninth day, head to Tso Moriri. Spend the night in Karzok.
• Drive to Tso Kar on the tenth day. On the way, stop at the Puga hot springs. Spend the night in Tso Kar.
• Begin your return journey on the eleventh day. Manali is 9 hours away, and Leh is 4-5 hours.

HELPFUL INFORMATION AND TIPS

It is the last section of the Ladakh travel guide. I’ve compiled a list of helpful tips for a hassle-free journey.

• When travelling to Tso Moriri and Hanle, carry extra fuel. The nearest petrol pump is in Karu, almost 250 km away. Loose petrol and diesel are available in Hanle, Pang and Karzok for a price.
• Jio, Airtel and Idea have no network in Ladakh. BSNL postpaid has little network in Nubra valley and near Pangong Tso. Therefore Google maps don’t work. So download offline maps or carry a map book.
• Always pre-book camps and hotels because finding a room during peak season is a nightmare.
• Always carry cash. Many homestays and hotels don’t accept online payments. Also, ATMs are available only in Leh and Nubra valley.
• An inner line permit is necessary to visit all places Leh. While filling out the form, select all the places you wish to visit.
• Carry lots of snacks and water. There are no stalls or restaurants along the Pangong-Hanle road and from Tso Moriri to Tso Kar.
• Always wear warm clothes and cover your ears. It is windy at high altitudes. Constant wind can result in severe headaches. Cover your ears to prevent headaches.

CONCLUSION

It concludes the Ladakh travel guide. I’ve tried to cover all the information. But if I’ve missed something, please let me know in the comments.

I hope this ignites your wanderlust because

Not all classrooms have four walls.

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